STARTING PROCEDURE

Before attempting to start the engine, read the notes which follow concerning the mixture control:-
SPECIAL NOTE MIXTURE CONTROL "60"
The mixture control on the "60" models has three positions and there is no graduation between them. The mixture is NORMAL when the control is right in as far as it will go. The WARMING-UP position can be found by pulling out the control until a light click is felt; it is a little more than half-way out. The RICH or STARTING position is with the control right out. On no account leave the control in any position between those indicated above and DO NOT FORGET TO PUSH THE CONTROL RIGHT IN AS SOON AS THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE WILL PERMIT.
This condition will be indicated by the appearance of an AMBER WARNING LIGHT on the instrument panel.

SPECIAL NOTE MIXTURE CONTROL"75"
The mix tune control on the "75" models has two definite positions only; the mixture is NORMAL when the control is right in and the RICH or STARTING position is with the control right out. The WARMING-UP position can be at any point between these two extremes as it is infinitely variable between them; the control must therefore be progressively returned from the RICH to the NORMAL position as the engine warms up, being finally pushed right home when the AMBER WARNING LIGHT appears on the instrument panel.

Having read the special notes above, proceed to START THE ENGINE by first of all making sure that the GEAR LEVER is in the neutral position, that is to say, in the midway position between the gears (see Page 18). When in this position. it can be moved sideways the full width of the "gate." Then set the MIXTURE CONTROL to suit, i.e.,
(a) right out if the engine is cold,
(b) in a midway position if the engine is warm or (c) right in if the engine is hot.

Finally, switch on the IGNITION; press the STARTER BUTTON and the engine should start up after a turn or two.

FALSE START.
If the engine makes a false start when using the starter, that is to say, fires and does not continue to run but throws the starter pinion out of mesh, IT IS IMPERATIVE to wait until the pinion and flywheel come to rest before again pressing the starter button; failure to observe this precaution may jam and bend the shaft of the starter motor.

WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS.

Except under conditions of extreme cold the mixture control should be pushed in from the RICH (right out) position to the WARM-UP (mid-way) position within a few seconds of the engine starting. This period may have to be extended if conditions are severe, but should never exceed a minute or so. Continue with the control in the mid-way position until the amber warning light appears, when the knob should be pushed right in to the NORMAL position.

MIXTURE CONTROL WARNING LIGHT.
Like all mechanical devices the mixture control warning system is not completely fool-proof and the responsibility for pushing the mixture control to the NORMAL position rests on the driver, especially as the warning light may never appear owing to bulb failure. As a guide the engine should always run satisfactorily in the NORMAL position within half a mile from starting away.

SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING STARTING.
Your carburettor is fitted with an accelerating pump; this is fully described on Pages 48 and 57. The action of an accelerating pump is such that if the throttle is fully depressed, an extra rich mixture is provided to assist acceleration. . As this is snot wanted when starting the engine, except under abnormal starting conditions, DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR at all, especially if the engine is cold. It may assist starting a hot engine if the throttle is opened halfway, but it must be kept still.

GEAR CHANGING INSTRUCTIONS
Study - the positions of the various gears (see Fig. 4). Sometimes owners experience a little hesitation at first in locating the positions. Actually, however, there is no need whatever for any difficulty and a few moments' consideration will suffice to put the majority of owners at their ease.
Sit in the driving seat and with the clutch pedal depressed learn the five gear positions by feel. Go through the series of operations a few times and all difficulty will vanish rapidly.

REVERSE.
The gear lever is so constructed that it is necessary to press down a plunger on top of the gear lever before reverse can be engaged. Thus it is impossible to get into reverse without first pressing down the plunger.

FREEWHEEL.
Do not attempt to move the car from stationary until you have determined if the freewheel control is in the "free" or the "fixed" position.

STARTING FROM REST.
Assuming you have mastered the gear positions, the procedure for starting the car from a standstill is as follows -
With the engine running, depress the clutch pedal fully and engage first gear. Release the handbrake by pulling the lever slightly upwards, release the catch by pressing down the knob on top of the 'brake lever and let the lever go downwards. Speed up the engine a little and as you do so, allow the clutch pedal to come back until you feel the clutch just gripping. Further gentle pressure of the accelerator will be necessary as the clutch takes up the drive, and by this time the clutch should be right in.

SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING GEAR-CHANGING SPEEDS
Throughout the instructions which follow, approximate speeds are quoted at which the various gear-changes should be made. These are given only to serve as a guide for owners who are unaccustomed to Rover Cars; they can be modified considerably as experience is gained under varying road conditions.
As the 2nd and 3rd gears are very silent, there is a tendency to drive faster on the indirect gears than is really advisable. At all times care should be taken against "racing" the engine and a "change-up" should be made well before the engine revolutions reach their peak.

GEAR CHANGING WITH FREEWHEEL IN OPERATION

CHANGING UP
As long as the freewheel is in use, it is not necessary to use the clutch once the car has been moved from rest. After having set the car in motion, proceed on first gear, speeding up the engine until about 5-8 m.p.h. (8-15 k.p.h.) is attained and then proceed as follows to change to a higher gear:

1. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.
2. Pause long enough for the engine revolutions to die down. This will take from one to three seconds, according to speed attained.
3. Move the gear lever gently but firmly into the second position.
4. Continue with acceleration.

NOTE.The pause before changing up- is most essential. A long pause will not matter; if too short, a noisy gear change will result.
Repeat the procedure from second to third gear at about 15 m.p.h. (25 k.p.h.) and from third to top gear at 20-25 m.p.h. (35-40 k.p.h.).
If this method is adopted and strictly followed, it does away with any necessity for using the clutch once the car is in motion, provided the freewheel is in use.

CHANGING DOWN.
To change down from top to third gear or from any gear to a lower gear, proceed as follows : -,
Lift your foot off the accelerator pedal and at the same time move the gear lever from the top to the third position; continue with the acceleration. The movement need not be hurried but it is impossible to do it too quickly; there must be no pause in neutral.
The same method of changing down applies in changing from third to second gear; if a very rapid "change-down" is required on a steep hill it is advisable to use the clutch in the normal manner.

GEAR CHANGING WITH FREEWHEEL IN FIXED POSITION
If it is desired to drive the car with the freewheel in the "fixed" position, the method of changing gear is somewhat different and the following procedure should be adopted.
CHANGING UP. - After having set the car in motion as described in the "starting from rest" paragraph above, continue on first gear, speeding up the engine until 5-8 m.p.h. (8-15 k.p.h.) is attained and then proceed as follows -
1. Depress the clutch pedal, at the same time taking the foot off the accelerator pedal.
2. Move the gear lever into neutral.
3. Pause (count "one, two").
4. Move the gear lever into the second gear position.
5. Release the clutch pedal, at the same time pressing the accelerator pedal gently.
To change from second to third speed, continue in second gear until about 15 m.p.h. (25 k.p.h.) is registered on the speedometer; then carry out the same procedure as in the preceding paragraph. Repeat the operations again from third speed to top, when approximately 20-25 m.p.h. (35-40 k.p.h.) is reached.

CHANGING DOWN FROM TOP TO THIRD.
(1) Depress the clutch pedal and move the gear lever towards the third speed position; it will not be possible to enter third gear immediately, but if light pressure is maintained on the lever in the required direction, third gear will be entered without noise after-a slight pause.
(2) Speed up the engine by pressing the accelerator pedal and let in the clutch.
If this operation is carried out badly by virtue of failure to synchronise the gear speeds correctly by accelerator manipulation, it will merely mean that the change will take a little longer; however, if you do not give correct synchronisation yourself the synchro-mesh mechanism will do it for you, if you keep a steady pressure on the lever. Never snatch the gear lever.

CHANGING DOWN FROM THIRD TO SECOND AND FROM SECOND TO FIRST.
Use the same method as when changing from top to third speed. Synchro-mesh does not operate on these two gears, but as a change is usually made at very low speeds, "timing" is not of very great importance. Experienced drivers will, of course, be able to change down at comparatively high speeds by using the "double-declutch" method, which briefly means that the two gears that are to be engaged are brought to as near the same speed as possible by accelerator manipulation; so the higher the road speed the more the engine must be speeded up.

IN CASE OF TROUBLE ENGINE REFUSES TO START:

(1) Is the ignition switched on?
(2) Is the cold start control properly set? (See Page 16).
(3) Is there petrol in the tank?
(4) Is there petrol at the carburettor?
(5) Is the petrol tank vent hose clear?
(6) Is there~ a spark at the plugs? (See Page 89).
(7) Is the distributor contact-breaker adjusted correctly?
(8) Is the throttle closed, i.e., is foot clear of the accelerator?
(Unless the engine is very hot, when starting may be assisted if the throttle is opened).
(9) Is the distributor condenser faulty?
(10) Is the manifold petrol drain pipe blocked?

ENGINE STARTS BUT SOON STOPS:
(1) Is a carburettor jet choked?
(2) Is the carburettor or petrol pump filter blocked? (See Page 45).
(3) Is there a partial stoppage in the petrol pipe?
(4) Are the plugs faulty?
(5) Is there an intermittent short-circuit in the ignition switch wire?
(6) Is there water in the petrol?
(7) Is the cold start control properly set? (See Page 16).
(8) Is the carburettor float punctured?

ENGINE MISFIRES:
(1) Are the plugs faulty?
(2) Are the contact-breaker points maladjusted or badly pitted? (See Page 74).
(3) Is a valve sticking occasionally?
(4) Is the insulation of a high-tension wire porous?
(5) Is~ the coil defective?
(6) Is the ignition switch wire chafing any metal part of the car?
(7) Is the cold start control properly set? (See Page 16).
(8) Is the distributor condenser faulty?

LACK OF POWER:

(1) Are the tappets correctly adjusted? (See Page 63).
(2) Are the piston rings worn or gummed with carbon?
(3) Is the ignition timed correctly? (See Page 63).
(4) Has the valve timing been disturbed? (See Page 61).
(5) Is a carburettor jet choked?
(6) Is the carburettor throttle opening fully?
(7) Does the engine need decarbonising and valves grinding? (See Page 61).
(8) Are the tyres inflated to correct pressure? (SeePage 70).
(9) Are the brakes binding? (See Page 39).
(10) Is the carburettor flooding?
(11) Is the cold start control being used correctly? (See Page 16).
(12) Are good petrol and recommended oil being used? (See Pages 6 and 36).
(13) Is the carburettor accelerator pump working satisfactorily? (See Pages 53 and 60).