FREE WHEEL CONTROL
To lock the freewheel in the "fixed" position, turn the knob in the centre of the facia board one half turn anti-clockwise; to unlock,' i.e., bring the freewheel into operation, turn the knob one half turn clockwise. The freewheel control must never be operated unless -
1. The car is stationary.
2. The car is moving, with the engine pulling.

Never attempt to change when the car is coasting.
If these instructions are not adhered to, the fre~whee1 may jam in the locked position and the change over would be noisy.
Always remember that with the freewheel locked, the gear change must be operated with the aid of the clutch.

FREE WHEEL CONTROL ADJUSTMENT.
After the freewheel control has been in use for some time, it becomes necessary to take up any backlash that may have developed.
The backlash is caused by the Bowden wire freewheel control stretching and adjustment usually becomes necessary after the first 750 miles (1.000 Km.) or even less, according to the amount of use the control has had in that period. After the initial stretch has been taken out of the cable, no further adjustments are necessary. This condition is usually reached by the time 1,000 miles (1.500 Km.) have been covered.
Fig. 5. Section of Freewheel.
A-Mainshaft (gearbox).
B-Inner member
C-Rollers (large, medium and small).
D-Cam roller shoe (free).
E-Cam roller shoe (fixed).
F-Outer member.
G-Retaining plate.
H-Spring ring for inner member.
J-Locking dog.
K-Speedometer drive -worm.
When adjustment has been delayed too long a grating noise will be heard when freewheeling and the noise obviously., comes from the direction of the gearbox. When this noise is heard the adjustment should be made at the first opportunity or damage will be caused to the freewheel. The adjustment is quite simple and takes only a few minutes to carry out. Proceed as follows :

1. Place the freewheel in the fixed. position by turning the control fully in an anti-clockwise direction.
2. Put the gear lever in the first gear position, release the handbrake and rock the car backwards and forwards several times, a few inches in each direction. This is done to make sure that the freewheel has fully engaged the fixed position and on level ground will present no difficulties.

3. Grasp the freewheel control and move it very gently alternately left and right the distance required to take up any backlash present; if this is done very lightly, the backlash is easily felt. Whatever backlash is present' (it will probably be as much as 0.5 in. (13 mm.) measured at the rim of the control knob) will have to be reduced to the barest perceptible amount.

4. The control cable adjustment will be found about 9 ins. (20 cm.) behind the control knob under the instrument panel and it consists of long and short adjusting nuts with a lock-nut between. With a spanner release the lock-nut (A) by turning it-in an anti-clockwise direction and adjust the cable by holding the short adjusting nut (B) and rotating the long nut (C) in the required direction (anti-clockwise to reduce and clockwise to increase the backlash). This should be done until the smallest perceptible amount of backlash remains at the control knob. It is essential that this small amount be left or only partial engagement of the fixed position is possible, with consequent risk of damage to the freewheel device. Do not forget to re-tighten the lock-nut (A) when the adjustment is correct. The backlash must always be measured at the outer edge of the control knob; the maximum free movement at that point should be 0.5 in. (13mm.) and the minimum 0.125 in. (3 mm.).
Fig. 6. Freewheel Cable Adjustment.
A-Locknut.
B-Short adjusting nut.
C-Long adjusting nut.

LUBRICATION

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS,
One of the most important factors in the performance and. durability of any machine is its lubrication. We are in your hands; the manufacturers, not being able to stand over you and see that you put the right lubricant in the right place at the right time, can only lay down instructions and hope that they will be carried out.
The lubricants recommended for use on this vehicle will be found on Page 36, and they are also given on a plate attached to the scuttle on the -left-hand side. They have been selected only after an enormous amount of experimental work on our part in conjunction with the oil refiners; as a result of the careful checks and tests to which they have been subjected, we find that the oils listed are pre-eminently suitable for a Rover car and you are earnestly advised to use no other lubricants.

'Not being able to stand
over you and see that you
put the right lubrication the
right place at the right time'

Apart from the general requirements of high quality and suitability, the oil-used should be highly resistant to formation of sludge or any insoluble substance during operation and it should be and remain non-corrosive, to the copper or bronze parts of the engine and transmission, this being especially true of the alloy main and connecting rod bearings.
In cold weather, starting the engine may prove to be a serious problem if oils heavier than those indicated are used and they would also affect fuel economy and engine life, so when ordering your oil be careful to state the GRADE as well as the MAKE. Do not ask simply for XL or CASTROL, but always ask for CASTROL XL or whatever make and grade you require; also see that the oil is drawn from a container bearing the well-known trade-mark.
Petrol additives.
We advise upper cylinder lubrication, during the running-in -period, both when the car is new and after re-boring. Our recommendations are shown on Page 6 and they should be used in the proportion of one fluid ounce to four gallons of petrol (three centilitres to twenty litres of petrol). It is not considered so essential after the engine has been "run-in," but use of a petrol additive can be continued without any detrimental effect.
Fig. 7. Right-hand Side View of Engine. ("60")

A-Vibration damper.
B-Dynamo.
C- Vacuum retard unit.
E-Oil filler pipe.
F-Sump dip-stick.
G-Gauze scavenge filter.
H-Sump oil level unit.
J-Manifold petrol drain pipe.
K-Cylinder block drain tap.
L-Heater shut-off tap.
Fig. 8. Left-hand Side View of Engine. ("60")
A-Vibration damper.
B-Dynamo.
C-Vacuum retard unit.
D-Octane selector.
E-Oil filler.
L-Heater shut-off tap.
M-External oil filter.
N-Oil pressure release valve.
P-Starter motor.
Q-Breather pipe.
R-Oil feed pipe to inlet rocker shaft.
Fig. 9. Right-hand Side View of Engine. ("75")
A-Vibration damper.
B-Dynamo.
C-Vacuum retard unit.
E-Oil filler pipe.
F-Sump dip-stick.
G-Gauze scavenge filter.
H-Sump oil level unit.
J-Manifold petrol drain pipe.
K-Cylinder block drain tap.
L-Heater shut-off tap.
Fig. 10. Left-hand Side View of Engine. ("75")
A-Vibration damper.
B-Dynamo.
C-Vacuum retard unit.
D-Octane selector.
E-Oil filler.
L-Heater shut-off tap.
M-External oil filter.
N-Oil pressure release valve.
P-Starter motor.
Q-Breather pipe.
R-Oil feed pipe to inlet rocker shaft.
Oil additives.

We would advise you that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for damage arising from the use of any additive to our recommended lubricants.
The high-grade engine oils we have selected and recommend (see table on Page 36) are complete in themselves and afford every protection in use. A warning is necessary against the addition of any oils or other products, as these may materially impair the character of the lubricant in use by dilution and so reduce the lubricant viscosity to danger point.
These points apply equally to gearbox and rear axle lubrication as well as to the engine.