ENGINE LUBRICATION

It is necessary that the quantity of oil in the system be kept within specified limits. Since a certain amount of oil is used up in the proper operation of the engine the supply must be replenished from time to time, this requirement being additional to periodic changing of the oil. The amount of oil used will depend largely, amongst other things, on the speed at which the vehicle is driven.

A dip-stick is provided on the engine and access to it is obtained by lifting the right-hand side bonnet top panel (see Figs. 7 and 9). This stick carries two marks, H (High) and L (Low) and the oil-level should always be maintained as near the H mark as possible; on no account should it fall below the L mark, in fact it is desirable that the L mark is not even approached.

Before taking a reading of the oil-level by means of the dipstick, the engine should be stationary long enough to allow the oil to drain back into the sump from the cylinder walls and overhead rocker gear, etc., a process which normally takes about 30 minutes. Remove the dip-stick by pulling it straight upwards out of its socket, making sure that no dirt drops into the sump; wipe the rod clean, re-insert to its full depth and remove a second time to take the reading.

Do not fill beyond the H mark, otherwise you may experience trouble with sooted plugs and the engine may require more frequent decarbonisation than is really necessary.

ENGINE OIL CHANGES.
For the first 750 miles (1.000 Km.) it is recommended that the oil placed in the crankcase by the manufacturer be used.
At 750 miles (1.000 Km.) this oil should be changed (see Page 36 for recommended lubricants); thereafter, under good conditions, the engine oil need only be changed at intervals of 3,000 miles (5.000 Km.), and THE EXTERNAL A.C. OIL FILTER AT 10,000 miles (15.000 Km.). It cannot be too strongly emphasised that, should the oil filter not be replaced at these intervals, the engine oil must be changed more frequently.
Under adverse conditions described in the following paragraphs, it may become necessary to change oil more frequently.

DUST.
Driving over dusty roads introduces abrasive material into the engine. Most roads in the British Isles are fairly free from dust, but should you take your car abroad this comparatively dust-free condition will not always apply. It is true that you have an air cleaner to take care of the dust, but it has its limits, so under abnormally dusty conditions an oil change should be effected somewhat earlier than the mileage recommended in the preceding paragraph.

CRANKCASE DILUTION,
By crankcase dilution is meant a thinning of the oil due to an accumulation of unburnt petrol leaking past the pistons and mixing with the oil, or water may be present in the oil due to condensation of moisture produced by the burning of the fuel.
Both these conditions are the result of short runs in cold weather; they do not occur when longer runs are undertaken because the increased engine temperature results in surplus water and fuel being prevented from accumulating in the oil. Here then are circumstances calling for an oil change rather earlier than the usual 3,000 miles (5.000 Km.).
A similar condition would arise as a result of prolonged run-fling on a rich mixture, due to delay in pushing the mixture control right in after the warning light indicates that the engine has reached normal running temperature. For the same reason every effort should be made to ensure that a satisfactory working temperature is attained without undue delay, and this will mean that under certain climatic conditions, a radiator muff or similar device should be used.

DRAINING THE SUMP.
The engine oil is drained by removing the plug in the bottom of the sump. The engine should first be run to get the oil well warmed-up; remove the plug and allow plenty of time for the dirty oil to drain completely away. Replace the plug and re-fill the engine by adding oil of the correct grade through the filler cap on top of the extension pipe on the right-hand side of the engine. (Figs. 7 and 9). The capacity of the sump is 10 pints (5,5 litres) on " 60 " and 15.5 pints (9 litres) on "75" models.

At the same time it is advisable to inspect the gauze scavenge filter in the sump and if necessary clean it by washing in petrol. This filter can be detached without removing the sump by unscrewing the large brass plug on the right-hand side of the sump. (Figs. 7 and 9).

ENGINE OIL CIRCULATION.
The oil pump is of the gear type, consisting essentially of two gears in mesh and requires no attention or adjustment. It is housed in the sump, being driven by a shaft and skew gearing from the camshaft.
Oil from the sump is delivered at full pressure to all main bearings and camshaft bearings through gallery pipes and drillings in the cylinder block. The big-end bearings are fed from the main bearings via passages in the crankshaft.
Lubrication for the timing chain is supplied at two points; by a feed from the front camshaft bearing into the periphery of the camshaft chainwheel and also by oil fed through the hollow shalt on which the timing chain jockey pulley is mounted arid thence through holes in the circumference of the jockey pulley.
The inlet (upper) and exhaust (lower) rocker shafts arc hollow, the inlet shaft being fed with oil from the rear end of the main gallery pipe via an external pipeline, whilst that for the exhaust rockers and inlet followers is supplied via drillings from the centre camshaft bearings. Each rocker and follower receives its oil through small holes drilled in the rocker shafts and in turn they are themselves also drilled, so that the oil finds its way through them and thence out again to lubricate the points of contact with the valves, push-rods and camshaft. The distributor drive shaft is lubricated with oil fed from the exhaust rocker shaft via a hollow bolt.
Surplus oil from the inlet valve gear returns through the cylinder casting and that from the exhaust valve gear direct to the sump.

OIL PRESSURE.
The oil pressure is set before the car leaves the works to show approximately 35-40 lbs/sq. in. on the gauge when travelling at about 30 m.p.h. (50 k.p.h.) It will be found that the pressure falls as low as 5 lbs / sq. in. when the engine is running slowly, but this is not detrimental. The pressure can be varied by means of an adjusting screw located on the left-hand side of the cylinder block. (See Figs. 8 and 10). By screwing up this adjusting screw, the release valve spring is compressed and the maximum pressure is consequently raised and vice versa. This valve should not be interfered with, however, unless the engine bearings become worn after a long period of service.

If the oil pressure drops below normal do not immediately adjust tile pressure release valve referred to above: More than probably it indicates either that the level of oil in the sump is running low, or else that the sump oil filter has become choked. Should there be ample oil in the crankcase, examine the scavenge filter in the sump and clean if necessary; the filter is readily withdrawn by removing the large brass plug in the right-hand side of the sump.

EXTERNAL OIL FILTER.
In addition to the coarse gauze scavenge filter in the sump, the oil is cleaned by means of an A.C. type ZS1 pressure filter mounted externally on the engine. This filter continually cleans a proportion of the oil drawn from the front end of the bearing gallery pipe, the return being direct to the sump by external pipeline.
It should be renewed at intervals not exceeding 10,000 miles (15.000 Km.).

CLUTCH LUBRICATION
The clutch withdrawal mechanism is lubricated from the gearbox; hence no individual attention is required.

GEARBOX LUBRICATION (INCLUDING FREEWHEEL)
The oil level dip-stick on the top of the gearbox should be examined before "topping-up"; the oil should be up to the H mark on the stick.

No separate filler is provided for the freewheel as it receives its lubrication from the gearbox.
The total capacity of the gearbox unit is approximately 4 pints (2,25 litres).

PROPELLER SHAFT LUBRICATION
The propeller shaft journal bearings are packed with grease before the car leaves the Works and no further attention is required.
If necessary, replenish the lubricant through the filler cap on top of the gearbox cover (Fig. 11). Do not forget to replace the filler cap.

REAR AXLE LUBRICATION
Access to the rear axle filler plug is gained by withdrawing the rear seat cushion and removing the small inspection cover on the right-hand side of the seat pan.

While it is necessary to make sure that the rear axle receives sufficient lubrication, it is important to avoid an excess of oil, which may find its way on to the brakes an& prove exceedingly difficult to remove.

The oil level should be checked every 1,000 miles (1.500 Km.); this should be done immediately after a run when the axle is warm. Remove the large filler plug on the right-hand side of the differential casing; if any oil runs out, allow it to do so, but if none appears when the cap is unscrewed, pour in as much oil as the axle will take.
The capacity of the rear axle is approximately 3 pints (1,75 litres).

The REAR HUBS require no lubrication.

FRONT HUB LUBRICATION
Lubricant for the front hubs is carried in the aluminium hub caps. The caps are filled with grease when the car is despatched from the Works and usually require no additional grease for 10,000 miles (15.000 Km.) or more. As a precautionary measure, however, it is advisable to remove the caps and check if any grease (see Page 36) is required at intervals of 2,500 miles (4.000 Km.) i.e., at the same mileage that the hub nuts are checked. Actually it will seldom be found that any fresh grease is required and usually, even when the cap is found to be almost empty, it is only because the bulk of the grease is clinging to the hub.

CHASSIS LUBRICATION
No regular lubrication is required on the chassis. All the shafts and bearings (i.e., brake cross shaft, clutch and brake pedal shafts, brake balance lever and steering relay lever) are packed with oil prior to the car leaving the Works and enclosed by oil-tight seals. They need no further attention for the life of the car except in cases of repair after accidental damage or when dismantled for any other reason. At such times they should be re-packed with oil as specified on Page 36.

STEERING BOX LUBRICATION
An oil filler plug will'be found on top of the steering box. Every 1,000 miles (1.500 Km.) remove the filler plug and add oil as required to bring the level to the bottom of the filler hole. Do not forget to replace the plug. (Fig. 13).

REAR SUSPENSION LUBRICATION
The rear springs are mounted on Silentbloc bushes which require no lubrication. Grease sleeves enclose the spring leaves; these are packed on assembly and additional grease would only be required, as a result of accidental damage or should they be removed for any repair operation. (See Page 36 for the grade of grease recommended).

FRONT SUSPENSION LUBRICATION
The only points on the front suspension needing regular lubrication attention are the swivel pins. Every 20,000 miles (30.000 Km.) or annually, remove the filler plug from the top of the swivel pin cap (see Fig. 14) and pour in oil of the grade specified on Page 36, until it overflows from the cap. It is most important that the oil be poured in; never employ a pressure oil-gun of any type, the use of which would disturb or destroy the oil-seals fitted to the swivel pin bushes.
The steering ball-joints require no regular lubrication. On general overhaul or repair after accidental damage they should be replaced complete, as necessary.

SUMMARY OF POINTS REQUIRING REGULAR ATTENTION

Use only the recommended lubricants listed on Page 36.

WEEKLY:
1. TYRES. Check pressures and inflate if necessary. Also inspect tyres for cuts, embedded flints, etc. (See Page 70).
2. WHEEL NUTS. Check for tightness. (See Page 66).
3. RADIATOR. Check the water level and replenish as necessary. (See Page 7).
4. BRAKES. Check the level of fluid in the hydraulic reservoir and replenish as necessary. (See Page 40).

EVERY 250 MILES (500 Km.):
1. ENGINE LUBRICATION. Check level of oil in sump and replenish if necessary. (See Page 30).
The oil level should never fall below the "L" mark on the dip-stick and should never be above the "H" mark.

AT FIRST 750 MILES (1.000 Km.):
.1. Your dealer will carry out the first .service check-over as detailed on the Free Service Card supplied with the car.

EVERY 1,000 MILES (1.500 Km.):
1. BATTERY. Check acid level and make sure that the terminals are tight and free from corrosion. (See Page 74).
2. GEARBOX. Inspect oil level and 'add oil as required. (See Page 33).
3. REAR AXLE. Inspect oil level and add oil as required. (See Page 34).
4. STEERING Box. Remove the plug and top-up with lubricant as required. (See Page 35).
5. BRAKES. Adjust brakes as necessary. (See Page 39).

AT FIRST 1,500 MILES (2.500 Km.):
1. Your dealer will carry out the second service check-over as detailed on the Free Service Card, supplied with the car.

EVERY 2,500 MILES (4.000 Km.):
1. DYNAMO AND FAN BELT. Check tension and adjust as required. (See Page 65).
2. FRONT Huns. Check- that the lock-nuts are tight and that the tab-washers are secure. Check lubrication. (See Page 34).
3. SPARKING PLUGS. Inspect and re-set gaps to .018 in. (0,45 mm.) if necessary.
4. WHEELS. Change round all wheels as detailed on Page 71 to give them equal spells of duty.
5. BODY. Check all body bolts, running board bolts, axle bolts, etc., and tighten as necessary.

EVERY 3,000 MILES (5.000 Km.):
1. ENGINE. Drain the sump, clean gauze scavenge filter and refill the engine with fresh oil. (See Page 31).
2. CLUTCH. It is important to see that 1 in. (25 mm.) free movement is maintained at the pedal pad. Adjust as required. (See Page 64).
3. GEARBOX . Drain off the oil and refill. with fresh lubricant. (See Page 33).
4. REAR AXLE. Drain off the - oil and refill with. fresh lubricant. (See Page 34).
5. TAPPETs. Check tappet adjustment. (See Page 63).
6. DISTRIBUTOR. Lubricate as described on Page 75.

EVERY 6,000 MILES (10.000Km.):
1. DISTRIBUTOR. Clean and check as described on Page 76.
2. TRAJFFICATORS. Lubricate as described on Page 76.
3. PETROL. Clean petrol pump filter.

EVERY 10,000 MILES (15.000 Km.):
1. ENGINE. Replace the A.C. external oil filter.
2. FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS. Examine and top-up as necessary. (See Page 43).
3. BRAKES. If brakes have been harshly used, relining may be desirable.

EVERY 20,000 miles (30.000 Km.) OR ANNUALLY:
1. SWIVEL PINs. Check lubrication. (See Page 35).

DECARBONIZING.
See Page 61.

GENERAL.
A few spots of oil should be applied to all exposed joints, such as throttle joints, brake joints, door locks and hinges, etc., as frequently as possible-at least once every month.