The brakes are of the Girling HydroMechanical type, their design being the same on both "60" and "75" models. The system is such that the front brakes are hydraulically actuated, whilst the rear brakes are operated mechanically. The hydraulic master cylinder and the operating rods to the rear brakes are so arranged that in the unlikely event of a failure occuring on either front or rear brakes, the pedal is not put out of action but leave one pair of brakes in pedal operation, so enabling the driver to make a safe stop. Handbrake operation is on the rear wheel brakes for parking purposes only.

When lining wear has reached a point where the pedal travel becomes excessive it is necessary to adjust the shoes in closer relation to the drum. Proceed as follows:

Fig 14. Front Brake Adjustment.
A-Brake adjuster.
B-Bleed screw.
C-Swivel pin lubrication plug.

Fig. 15. Rear Brake Adjustment.
A-Brake adjuster.
B-Expander rod.

Front Brakes. (See Fig. 14).
Jack up each front wheel in turn. On the back face of the brake anchor plate, adjacent to the wheel cylinder, will be found a hexagon adjustment bolt (A) which operates a snail-cam bearing on the leading shoe. Only one of these is fitted to each front brake, thereby providing single-point adjustment. Spin the wheel and rotate the adjuster bolt away from the centre of the wheel until the brake shoes contact the drum, then ease the adjuster towards the centre of the wheel until the wheel again rotates freely.

Rear Brakes. (See Fig. 15).
The handbrake must be released before rear brake adjustment is carried out. Adjustment is made by rotating the adjuster wedge spindle (A), which protrudes through the brake anchor plate, in a clockwise direction until a resistance is felt. This is caused by the shoes contacting the drum. Unscrew the adjuster TWO clicks which can be felt and heard; the wheel should then be quite free to rotate. No other adjustment is necessary or provided to compensate for lining wear.

No attempt should be made to adjust the rods or levers of the mechanical linkage. If the setting is lost for any reason your Rover dealer should be consulted or instructions for correction obtained from us. The rod lengths and levers are correctly set prior to the car leaving the Works and any further adjustment is unnecessary.

The fluid reservoir on the right-hand side of the scuttle should be inspected weekly and if necessary topped-up to the correct level, which is three-quarters full. Use only genuine Girling Crimson Brake Fluid, which can be obtained from any Rover Dealer or Girling Agent.

The foot pedal can be altered to one of three positions after releasing a pinch bolt located at the junction of the pedal rod and lever. The adjustment can be reached by removing the bonnet side panel.


Fig. 16. Steering Gear Adjustment.
A-Oil filler plug
B-Nut adjustment.
C-Ball-race adjustment.

The Burman re-circulating ball steering gear is a worm and half nut type, the connection between the single-start worm and half helix nut being effected by steel balls, which pass through the half nut and return through a transfer tube, thus forming a closed circuit.
The forked head of the rocker shaft engages a conical form on the half nut, rotation of which is prevented by a roller mounted on a stem extending from this conical form, the said roller being guided by a cam-like slot formed in the cover plate.

It is very important that the steering gear should be regularly topped-up with one of the recommended oils listed on Page 36. An oil filler (A) is situated on top of the steering box large enough to allow oil to be poured in (see Fig. 16). Do not forget to replace the filler plug.

Wear or end play between the rocker shaft half nut and worm is taken up by an adjuster (B) in the cover plate. Care must be taken that this adjustment be effected when the steering gear is in the straight ahead position. This is important owing to the existence of slack in the lock positions when tight in the straight ahead position.

The steering column is adjustable to three positions. To carry out this adjustment, remove the two 0.3125 in. bolts and nuts retaining the column bracket to the scuttle; these can be easily reached through the glove-box. Slacken one turn the three 0.375 in. set-bolts retaining the steering box to the chassis frame. The column can now be raised or lowered to the alternative position. Replace the 0.3125 in. nuts and bolts and tighten the 0.375 in. set-bolts.


Fig. 17.
A-Filler plug.

The Armstrong shock absorbers are of the twin cylinder type; normally no adjustment is necessary, as the original setting will cover average road conditions. If, however, conditions arise that make modification desirable, consult your Rover Agent.

The oil level should be inspected and topped-up if required after every 10,000 miles (15.000 Km.). (See Fig. 17 for position of filler plug). Use "Armstrong" Super Shock Oil, as this is the only fluid with which these shock absorbers will give satisfactory results. The shock absorbers may be filled in position on the car, but care must be taken to avoid dirt entering the filler plug by thoroughly cleaning the exterior of the absorber body before removing the plug.

The correct oil level is to the bottom of the filler neck.

If it is suspected that the shock absorber is not functioning satisfactorily, it is advisable to uncouple the absorber arm and check by moving the arm by hand. A uniform resistance throughout the stroke indicates that. no attention is required. Should erratic resistance be found, the level of the oil should be checked and topped-up if required. If the resistance is still not uniform, consult your Rover Agent who will be able to provide you with a replacement unit.

Fig 18.


The Woodhead-Monroe Hydraulic Damper, as fitted to the rear suspension, is a double-acting direct control unit which ensures a smooth damping of the spring oscillations on both bump and rebound. The setting of the damper is the result of exacting trials and no adjustment is provided or required.

By means of a special seal in the damper the hydraulic fluid is kept in circulation in such a manner that leakage is not possible and therefore no topping-up is required at any time.

These dampers will not vary in control characteristics, but will give a long life of constant control. If the comfort of the ride should deteriorate, attention should be given to tyre pressures and an examination made of the rear springs to ensure that the grease sleeves are well packed and that the springs are able to flex freely.

Should the dampers require attention at any time as a result of accidental damage, they cannot be repaired by garages or service stations and should therefore be returned to your Rover Dealer together with an order for replacement units.


The S.U. electric petrol pump is of the diaphragm type and will give prolonged service with the minimum of attention.
Normally the only maintenance which should be required is a periodic cleaning of the filter, which action should be carried out at every 6,000 miles (10.000 Km.). The filter is inserted into the bottom of the pump body and can easily be withdrawn by unscrewing its hexagon attachment screw. Clean thoroughly in petrol with a stiff brush, never use rag.

Should petrol pump trouble be suspected, first disconnect the union at the pump end of the pipe from the pump to the carburettor, then switch on the ignition. If the pump functions, the fuel shortage is due either to blockage of the petrol pipe to the carburettor, or more possibly to the carburettor float needle sticking up. If the pump will not function, first remove the filter, and check that it is clear. Then disconnect the petrol pipe leading to the tank at the pump end and blow down the pipe with a tyre pump to ensure the pipe being absolutely clear. Reconnect the petrol pipe.

If the pump still does not function, disconnect the lead from the terminal on the bakelite cover and strike against the body of the pump to see if it sparks and therefore if any current is available in the wire. If the current is there remove the bakeite cover and touch the terminal with the lead. If the pump does not operate when the points are in contact and a spark cannot be struck off the terminal, it is probable there is some dirt on the points. These may be cleaned by inserting, a piece of card between them, pinching them together and sliding the card backwards and forwards.

Should the pump not work satisfactorily after these operations, the trouble is in the pump itself and the cause will be too much tension on the diaphragm. To release this tension, remove the body from the base of the pump by undoing the small screws which hold these two parts together. The diaphragm itself will then be found to be adhered to the body of the pump, from which it will have to be separated. A knife will help in this operation; care being taken to prevent the rollers which support the diaphragm from falling out. The body should then be replaced on the base and the screws put in loosely, but before finally tightening up, it is advisable to stretch the diaphragm to its highest possible position. This is effected by switching on the~ pump and holding' the contact points together whilst tightening the screws, well up.

If the pump becomes noisy in operation, look for an air leak on the suction side. The simplest way to check for this is to disconnect the petrol pipe from the carburettor and allow the pump-to-pump petrol into a can. If the end of the pipe is then submerged in the petrol and bubbles come through, it indicates an air leak which must be found and cured.

If the pump keeps on beating without delivering any petrol it is possible that a piece of dirt is lodged under one of the valves. To remove such an obstruction, unscrew the top union and lift out the valve cage. When replacing it see that the thin hard red fibre, washer is below the valve cage and the thick orange-coloured one above. A choked filter or an obstruction on the suction side will make the pump get very hot and eventually cause a failure.

The operations outlined above should effectively remedy any trouble likely to occur; if difficulty is still experienced, consult your local agent.