The clutch is controlled by means of the left foot pedal, the position of which can be altered in a similar manner to the brake pedal as instructed on Page 40. This pedal is linked to the clutch operating arm by means of a cable provided with a length adjustment device (see Fig. 26).


Fig. 25. Clutch Cable Adjustment.
B-Adjustment point.
C-Cable retaining nuts.

The pedal adjustment is correct when there is 1 in. (25 mm.) free movement measured at the pedal pad. This movement should be checked occasionally and should any adjustment be required, it is only necessary to lengthen or shorten the cable until the correct amount of free movement is obtained at the pedal pad. Slacken the lock-nut (A) and adjust the cable, using the spanner flats provided at (B). Disregard the two nuts
marked (c).

The clutch should be used purely for starting the car from rest and when changing gear (if the freewheel is not in use). It is bad driving and detrimental to any clutch to "coast" down hills with the clutch pedal depressed, or to make a habit of slipping the clutch when rounding corners, etc.

We use and recommend Lodge HL14P or HLNR sparking plugs. The sparking plug points should be checked periodically and the gaps adjusted if necessary. The best gap between the electrodes is .018 in. (0,45 mm.) and this figure should not be appreciably exceeded. The advice frequently given with coil ignition system's to run with a wide gap between the plug points is really only applicable to engines having a low compression ratio and not designed to speed up to a high rate of revolution.

The fan belt tension should be checked periodically, and adjusted when necessary.
To do this, slacken off the two nuts on the dynamo pivot bolts and also the set-bolt retaining the adjusting link to the dynamo. Move the dynamo outwards until the correct tension is obtained and tighten the nuts and set-bolt.

See Page 8 for information regarding Anti-Freeze Mixtures.
In frosty weather, if the car' is kept in an unheated garage, it is advisable to drain all the water out, unless an anti-freeze mixture is in use. It is not sufficient merely to drain the radiator; the cylinder block must also be drained. A drain tap for the radiator will be found on the underside of the radiator block and a tap for the cylinder block on the off-side of the engine at the rear of the block (Figs. 7 and 9). In addition, it will be necessary to remove the car heater unit, drain out .the water and replace, as this portion of the cooling system is not emptied when the two drain taps are opened.

A special jacking system is fitted to this car to enable the jack to be -placed in position with a minimum of effort and without any necessity for getting underneath the car.

The jack supplied is fitted with an extension projecting at right-angles from one side of the body This extension is intended to fit into a square bearing hole, one of which will be found fitted to each chassis side-member. These holes are reached through one of two traps in the floor of the car immediately in front of each front seat.

When it is required to raise either the left-hand or right-hand side of the car, lift the trap on the side concerned, fit the extension on the jack in the corresponding bearing in the side-member an4 operate the jack by means of the winding handle until the foot of the jack touches the ground. At this point, check that the foot of the jack is making square contact with the ground, rectify if necessary and then continue to wind until the wheels are clear of the ground. . To lower the car reverse operations.

Note.-When jacking the car with means other than those supplied, suitable jacking points are: Front: At the centre of the front chassis cross-member, under the steering relay lever cap.
Rear: On the shackle cross-tube across the car beneath the boot.

To remove a road wheel, jack up the side of the car concerned (see Page 65) remove the hub cover plate and unscrew the five double-ended hexagon nuts holding the wheel to the hub. When all the nuts are detached, gently pull the wheel over the studs, taking care not to damage the threads. It is advisable to use a drop of oil on each thread when replacing the nuts, to assist in subsequent removal.
Test the tightness of wheel, nuts at frequent intervals (weekly is suggested).
The spare wheel is carried in the boot lid and can be reached after lifting the boot lid cover from the inside, using the carriage key provided in the tool tray. The clamping plate retaining the spare wheel is fitted in a slot and can be removed complete with its securing bolt when the wing nut is slackened.

To remove a brake drum, take out the three holding screws (Fig. 27) and screw one of them into the "blind" hole as shown. This will force the drum off the hub.

If there is undue side play in the front wheels, wear can be taken up as follows -Jack up the side of the car concerned, remove the road wheel and aluminium hub cap. Release the locking plate washer to allow removal of the locking-nut.

Note that the right-hand side hub lock-nut has a right-hand thread and the lefthand side has a left-hand thread. The key washer has eleven holes with key offset giving vernier adjustment as the key washer is reversible. Only take up the adjusting nut until all play just disappears. Then the adjusting nut must be unscrewed one-third of a turn, which will give the approximate position for replacement of key washer, etc. Having replaced the key washer, refit locking plate and tighten up locking nut.

CAUTI0N.-Tightening up the locking nut will tighten the hub on to the bearings slightly and' it is important that there should be just a perceptible amount of play.
This slight play' can be felt by grasping the brake drum at the edges and rocking it gently. When it is certain that the adjustment is correct, the locking plate should be turned over. Replace the hub cap and road wheel.

Fig. 27. Brake Drum Removal.
A-Screw retaining brake drum.
B "'Blind" hole for removal.

Retaining straps for the luggage are provided and the straps are anchored at one end in an oval slot cut in the thickness of the boot lid and at the other end in similar slots in the boot lid frame at the top. If these straps are incorrectly fitted they will definitely not remain fastened, but if it is always remembered when hooking the straps into their respective slots that the hook when finally in position should be facing downwards, no trouble will be experienced. The boot can be locked in a closed position using the key provided.

The electric clock, which gives a faint "ticking" sound when in motion, is started by spinning clock-wise the knurled knob which protrudes from the left-hand side glove-box (Fig. 2). To adjust the hands, push the knob inwards, turn in the required direction, pull down and spin to restart the clock.

The car heating system comprises a heater unit and motor' driven fan mounted on the engine side of the scuttle. The fan is controlled by a rheostat switch on the left-hand side of the facia board (Fig. 2). Two small hand-operated shutters on the toe-board inside the car give control over the air entering the car (Fig. 28); air is also fed to two channels in the lower windscreen rail for demisting and de-frosting purposes.
A brief description of the heater system is given here so that its operation may be more easily understood and full advantage taken of the comfort which it affords.

Air is drawn from the rear of the radiator stoneguard through a duct passing over the top of the engine into the heater body. From the heater body it circulates through internal ducts to the car interior and to channels in the windscreen rail. The air is warmed by water from the engine system passing through the heater unit. The supply of water to the heater may be cut off by means of a tap located on the inlet pipe at the top front of the engine on the left-hand side (Figs. 8 .and 10).

It follows then, that the heater system can be used in two ways -
1. With the water tap "on," warm air is passed into the car and its volume is proportionate to the forward speed of the car. Its entry into the car body is controlled by the shutters on the toe-board.

2. This flow of air can be supplemented by switching on the fan.

Fig. 28. Car Heater Shutters.
A-Heater shutters on toe-board.

It will be appreciated that if the water stop tap is turned off, the air entering the car will be cold; advantage of this fact can be taken in warm weather.

Whenever the car is in motion, air, either warm or cold, will be passed to the windscreen channels, thus providing for demisting or de-frosting the windscreen, but it must be realised that at low road speeds, the volume of air entering the car will be correspondingly low; therefore, it will be an advantage under such circumstances to supplement this volume by using the fan also.

Although continual polishing is not necessary where chromium-plated parts are concerned, it is definitely necessary that dirt or tar should be removed if the original high polish is to be maintained. Although chromium plating cannot rust, in instances where it is used on ferrous metals (such as steel used for the bumpers) it does not prevent the accumulation of red oxide on the chromium surface. It is therefore necessary to give some attention to the correct method of removing oxide, dirt and tar. Ordinary metal polishes should NOT BE USED, as some of them contain solutions which act as a solvent to chromium. The best method of cleaning off mud and ordinary dirt is to wash with water and dry with a leather. For oxide or tar we recommend the use of CHROM-SHINE or any good brand of polish that has been specially prepared for chromium plate.

Adjustment is provided for both front seats.

Passenger's Seat. The horizontal position is governed by the straight handle at the front of the seat base which should be held to the right and the seat moved either forwards or backwards to the required position; release the handle and slight movement of the seat will then automatically engage the nearest notch in the runner.

Driver's Seat. The driver's seat is adjustable for both fore and aft position (in a similar manner to the passenger's seat) and also for rake and height; these are both controlled by the cranked handle at the front of the base which should be turned until the most comfortable driving position is obtained.

Bodies are of the usual metal paneled type, and are finished in cellulose. This can be wiped over with a soft dry cloth and polished if only dusty; otherwise it should be hosed and leathered in the ordinary way. To polish cellulose bodies any of the good brands of motor body polish may be used.

To open the sliding roof, turn the central handle a clockwise direction and pull to the rear. Look in the required position by a quarter-turn anti-clockwise. Reverse the sequence of operations when closing. Always securely lock the roof in all positions, otherwise rattles may develop.

Occasionally apply a few spots of oil to the runners-this will prevent stiffness, especially after the roof has been closed during the winter months.

The driver's door only is supplied with a pushing the inner door key, the remaining doors are locked by handle as far forward as possible; this can be done before the door is shut, or from the inside after the door is shut. All doors with one exception can then only be opened from the inside. The door key is interchangeable with that used for the ignition switch.

The passenger's sun visor is provided with a mirror on its reverse side.

Never allow the tyre pressures to fall below the figures shown in the table below; they should be checked weekly, using the pressure gauge provided in the tool tray.

NOTE-Some 1948 Rover "60" models are fitted with 5.25/17 tyres, others with 5.75/16; similarly some 1948 "75" models are fitted with 5.50/17, others with 5.75/16 tyres. It is important that you make sure of the size on your car and maintain the corresponding pressure as shown in the table.
The correct method of removing a tyre when the valve parts have been removed is to depress the edges of both sides of the cover into the rim well. (Fig. 29). The shortening of the tyre radii at two or three places means that the tyre is lengthened in relation to the rim at another point. It is at this point that a lever should be inserted and the cover can then be easily removed over the rim edge. An extractor is provided in the tool tray for removing the inside of the tyre valve.
Fig. 29
You cannot pull the cover edge at "A' over the rim edge until the cover edge at "B" is pushed off the rim shoulder "c" down into the well 'D," then the cover edge at "A" comes over the rim easily.
Remember the cover edges are inextensible - force will only damage the cover and can not stretch the edge.

Don't keep this as an ornament until the rest of the tyres wear out or puncture, but give it a spell of work so that it does not deteriorate. It is most important that the spare wheel be kept at the correct pressure, so that it is always ready for use.

To ensure best tyre mileages and even wear of all tyres it is most desirable to change the position of the tyres on the car (including the spare) every 2,500 miles (4.000 Km.) by moving the wheels round one position. (Thus, spare to right-hand side rear and all wheels moved round one position, finally bringing the left-hand side rear to become the spare).

The spare wheel is stored inside the boot lid and is reached from the inside with the aid of the carriage key provided in the tool tray.

Observance of the following points will prolong life -
1. Avoid overloading.
2. Check lyre pressures weekly. Avoid over-inflation or under-inflation.
3. Avoid harsh braking and fierce acceleration.
4. Avoid high speeds.
5. Avoid kerbing, bumps and other causes of severe impact.
6. Remove stones and flints from tyres frequently, at least once a week.
7. Change the wheel positions, including the spare, every 2,500 miles (4.000 Km.). (See above).
8. Have damage repaired promptly.

1. Dust the tube lightly with French Chalk, if available.
2. Inflate the tube until it begins to round out; then insert in cover.
3. Mount tyre on rim.

Before inflating BE SURE the tyre beads are clear of the well of the rim all the way round.
5. Inflate slowly until beads are fully seated.
6. Remove valve core to DEFLATE TUBE COMPLETELY.
7. Re-inflate to correct working pressure.


Have punctures or injuries vulcanised.
Ordinary patches should be used only for emergencies.

The Avon India Rubber Co. are always at your service to advise you on lyre problems.

Write to any of the addresses below :

Stock and Service Depots : -
LONDON, W.C. 1: Mabledon Place.
BRISTOL, 2: Narrow Plain, St. Phillips.
BIRMINGHAM, 3: 41 /42, Livery Street.
MANCHESTER, 1: 4, Whitworth Street West.
NEWCASTLE, 1: 21, Oxford Street.
GLASGOW, C. 1: 205, High Street.

BELFAST: 17 / 21, Glengall Street.