It should be possible to start
the engine by cranking with the starting handle.
5 Remove the cable from each sparking plug terminal in turn and
hold it so that the end is about 0.25 in. (7 mm.) away from some metal
part of the chassis, while the engine is turned over if sparks jump the
gap regularly, the coil and distributor are functioning correctly.
(i) If the sparks are
strong and regular, remove and clean the sparking plugs and re-set the
electrode gaps to .023-.026 in. (0,60-0,65 mm.).
(ii) If the sparks are NOT regular -
(a) Check that the distributor rotor is in position.
(b) Check that the L.T. connections on the coil and distributor are clean
(c) Check that the distributor points are -
2. Opening and closing correctly.
3. Correctly set when open-gap .012 in. (0,30 mm.).
(d) Check that current is present at the S.W. terminal on the coil, by
disconnecting the wire at the coil end and touching it against the S.W.
terminal, with the ignition switch "ON" and the distributor
contact-breaker points closed. If sparks occur, low tension current is
flowing through the coil correctly if there is NO SPARK, either the coil
or the low tension wiring is defective and your agent should be consulted.
(iii) If the sparks are weak and in addition there is a flashing
at the distributor contact breaker points, a faulty distributor condenser
(iv) If the sparks are present on some leads, but not on others, check
the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for faulty insulation.
the petrol pipe from the carburettor and check that petrol is delivered
to the carburettor when the ignition is switched " ON." If petrol
is not delivered from the pipe -
(i) Check that the pump "ticks" when the ignition is ON, with
the pipe still disconnected. If not, the fault is probably in the pump
(ii) Check that the petrol shut-off tap on the sediment bowl is "
(iii) Check that the petrol pipes and filters are clear.
(iv) Check that there are no air leaks in the suction line to the pump,
in particular at the sediment bowl.
7. Check that the manifold drain pipe (below the carburettor) is not
blocked, by depressing the accelerator pedal fully two or three times
and noting that a few drops of petrol run out of the drain pipe. If not,
remove and clean the pipe.
ENGINE STARTS BUT SOON STOPS.
1. Check that the controls are set correctly.
2. Check the petrol feed to the carburettor, by disconnecting the
pipe from the carburettor and noting the petrol flow with the ignition
If there is little or
no flow -
(i) Check the petrol level in the tank.
(ii) Check that the air vent in the filler cap is clear.
(iii) Check the petrol pump for correct operation.
(iv) Check that the petrol filters are clear.
(v) Check that the petrol pipes are clear.
3. Check that the carburettor jets are clear, in the following
(i) Starter petrol jet
(ii) Main jet.
(iii) Pilot jet.
4. Check for a fault
in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire between the "A"
connection on the voltage regulator box and the "SW" connection
on the coil, thus by-passing the ignition switch. At the same time, the
wire from the ignition switch must be disconnected from the coil.
5. Remove the carburettor
top cover and check that there is no water in the float chamber.
Engine running on less than four cylinders, either intermittently or continually.
1. Stop the engine and endeavour to re-start with the starter motor
to check the state of the battery and connections. If the battery is in
a low state of charge, it will need re-charging from an independent electrical
supply, and the charging circuit should be checked.
2. Remove the lead from each sparking plug in turn and check : -
(i) By holding the end
of the lead about 0.25 in. (7 mm.) away from a metal part of the engine
with the engine running. Sparks should jump the gap regularly.
If NO SPARK is present on one or more cylinders: -
(a) Check for moisture on the H.T. leads or distributor.
(b) Check, clean and re-set the distributor contact-breaker points to
.012 in. (0,30 mm.) as necessary.
(c) Check the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for faulty
if the SPARK is IRREGULAR on
all cylinders : -
(a) Check for moisture as in (i) (a).
(b) Check the distributor points as in (i) (b).
(c) Cheek the cap and leads as in (i) (e).
(d) Check the L.T. connections for tightness and cleanliness.
(e) Check for flashing or "blueing" of the contact-breaker points.
If present, the distributor condenser should be replaced.
(f) Check for a fault in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire between
the A connection on the voltage regulator box and the "SW" connection
on the coil, thus bypassing the ignition switch. At the same time, the
wire from the ignition switch must be disconnected from the coil.
ii) For any audible alteration
in the running of the engine, as each lead is removed. No alteration will
indicate that the sparking plug in question is at fault : -
(a) Remove and clean the plug; re-set the gap to .023--.026 in. (0,60-0,65
mm.) as necessary.
(b) If still faulty, fit a new sparking plug.
3. If the " missing"
is accompanied by " spitting back" through the carburettor,
a valve may be sticking. This can often be cured by slowly dropping oil
or upper cylinder lubricant into the carburettor intake, while the engine
LACK OF ENGINE POWER.
1. Check that the carburettor
throttle is opening fully.
2. Check that the brakes are not binding and that the tyre pressures
3. Check that the carburettor jets are not blocked (in the following
(i) Main jet.
(ii) Pump jet.
(iii) Economy jet.
4. Check that the carburettor
accelerator pump is opening correctly by depressing the accelerator pedal
two or three times with the engine stationary and noting that there is
a petrol discharge from the manifold drain pipe.
5. Check the ignition timing.
6. Check tappet adjustment
7. If items 1-6 are
satisfactory, it is probable that the engine needs decarbonising and your
Rover agent should be consulted.
1. Battery in Low State of Charge.
(a) This state will be shown
by lack of power when starting, poor light from the lamps and hydrometer
readings below 1.200, and may be due to the dynamo either not charging
or giving low or intermittent output. Check the ammeter reading when the
vehicle is running steadily in top gear with no lights in use; a definite
steady charge should be indicated. The ignition warning light will not
go out if the dynamo fails to charge, or will flicker on and off in the
event of intermittent output.
(b) Examine the charging and
field circuit wiring, tightening any loose connections, or replacing broken
cables. Pay particular attention to the battery connections.
(c) Examine the dynamo driving belt; take up any undue slackness by turning
the dynamo on its mounting.
(d) If the cause of the trouble is not apparent, have the equipment examined
by a Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
2. Battery Overcharged.
This will be indicated by burnt-out bulbs, very frequent need for topping-up
of battery and high hydrometer readings. Check the ammeter reading when
the vehicle is running steadily-with a fully charged battery and no lights
or accessories in use, the charge reading should be of the order of only
3-4 amperes. If the ammeter reading is in excess of this value, it is
advisable to have the regulator setting tested and adjusted if necessary
by a Service Depot or Agent.
1. Starter Motor Lacks Power or Fails to Turn Engine.
(a) See if the engine
can be turned over by hand. If not, the cause of the stiffness of the
engine must be located and remedied.
(b) If the engine can be turned by hand, first check that the trouble
is not due to a discharged battery.
(c) Examine the connections to battery, starter and starter switch, making
sure that they are tight and that the cables connecting these units are
(d) It is also possible that the starter pinion may have jammed in mesh
with the flywheel, although this is by no means a common occurrence. To
disengage the pinion, rotate the squared end of the starter shaft by means
of a spanner in the opposite direction to normal rotation.
2. Starter Operates,
but Does Not Crank Engine.
This fault will occur
if the pinion of the starter drive is not allowed to move along the screwed
sleeve into engagement with the flywheel, due to dirt having collected
on the screwed sleeve. Clean the sleeve carefully with paraffin.
3. Starter Pinion Will
Not Disengage from Flywheel When Engine is Running.
Stop the engine, and
see if the starter pinion is jammed in mesh with the flywheel, releasing
it if necessary by rotation of the squared end of the starter shaft in
the opposite direction to normal rotation. If the pinion persists in sticking
in mesh, have the equipment examined at a Service Depot. Serious damage
may result to the starter if it is driven by the flywheel.
1. Lamps Give Insufficient Illumination.
(a) Test the state of charge of the battery, recharging it if necessary
either by a long period of day-time running or from an independent electrical
(b) Check the setting of the lamps, and that the headlamp bulbs are in
(c) If the bulbs are discoloured as a result of long service, they should
be replaced. On lamps in which the reflector surface is accessible, see
that it is clean.
2. Lamps Light When
Switched On, but Gradually Fade Out.
As para. 1. (a).
3. Brilliance Varies
with Speed of Vehicle.
(a) As para. 1. (a).
(b) Examine the battery connections, making sure that they are tight,
and replace faulty cables.
4. Lights Flicker.
Examine the circuits of the lamps for loose connections.
5. Failure of Lights.
(a) As para 1. (a).
(b) Examine the wiring for a loose or broken connection, and remedy.