The wheel brakes, operated by the foot pedal, are of the Girling hydraulic type, while the handbrake operates a Girling mechanical brake unit mounted on the output shaft from the transfer box.



When lining wear has reached the point where the pedal travel becomes excessive, it is necessary to adjust the brake shoes in closer relation to the drum. Proceed as follows:

Jack up each wheel in turn. On the back face of the brake anchor plate, will be found a hexagon adjustment bolt (A), which operates a snail cam bearing on the leading shoe. Only one of these is fitted to each wheel brake unit, thereby providing single-point adjustment. Spin the wheel and rotate the adjuster bolt until the brake shoe contacts the drum, then ease the adjuster until the wheel again rotates freely. Repeat for the other three wheels.

Fig. 21. Wheel brake adjustment.

A-Brake adjuster.
B-Bleed nipple.


Periodic adjustment of the transmission brake unit will be required proceed as follows (see Fig. 22) -
Release the hand-brake. Adjustment is made by means of the adjuster wedge spindle protruding from the front of the brake back-plate; during rotation of the adjuster a click will be felt and heard at each quarter revolution. Rotate the spindle as far as possible in a clockwise direction, i.e., until the brake shoes contact the drum. Then unscrew the adjuster two clicks, and give the brake a firm application to centralise the shoes; the brake drum should now be quite free to rotate. No other adjustment to the hand-brake system is necessary to compensate for lining wear.

Fig. 22 Transmission brake adjustment.

A-Transmission brake adjuster.
B-Propeller shaft sleeve lubrication
C-Transfer box oil drain plug. nipple.
D-Petrol tank drain plug.

The fluid reservoir for the hydraulic wheel brake system is fitted under the seat box
on the right-hand side and is accessible when the locker lid is raised. The fluid level should be inspected weekly and topped up as necessary until the reservoir is three-quarters full. Use only genuine Girling Crimson Brake Fluid, which can be obtained from any Rover Dealer or Girling Agent.

If the level of the fluid in the reservoir is allowed to fall too low, or if any section of the brake pipe-line is disconnected, the brakes will feel " spongy " due to air having been absorbed into the system. It will be necessary to remove this airlock by "bleeding" the brake system at the wheel cylinders. Bleeding must always be carried out at all four wheels, irrespective of which portion of the pipe-line is affected. Proceed as follows: -
Attach a suitable length of rubber tubing to the bleed nipple on the brake back-plate (Figs. 8, 9 and 10) and place the lower end of the tube in a glass jar. Slacken the bleed screw behind the nipple and pump the brake pedal slowly up and down. pausing at each end of each stroke, until the fluid issuing from the tube shows no sign of air bubbles when the tube is held below the surface of the fluid in the jar. Then tighten the bleed screw before removing the tube from the fluid in the jar.
Repeat these operations for the three other wheels in turn. It is well to continually replenish the fluid in the reservoir while pumping, to ensure that the level does not fall too low and cause another air-lock to be formed.


The semi-elliptic leaf springs and the spring shackles are fitted with rubber bushes, which need no lubrication attention; the front road springs are interchangeable while the rear ones are handed. As a safeguard in the event of main spring leaf fracture, the ends of the second leaf are curled over the bushes, to afford some measure of support until the defect can be rectified.
Spring control is by Woodhead-Monroe hydraulic dampers, mounted on rubber bushes at top and bottom. This pattern damper is a double-acting control unit which ensures a smooth damping of the spring oscillations on both bump and rebound. By means of a special seal in the damper, the hydraulic fluid is kept in circulation in such a manner that leakage is not possible and therefore no topping-up is required at any time.
Should the dampers require attention as a result of accidental damage, they cannot be repaired by garages or service stations and should therefore be returned to your Rover agent, who will be able to supply replacement units.


Your Land-Rover is equipped with Dunlop tyres (6.00-16 Trakgrip T28 pattern tyres).

Fig. 23. Dunlop 6.00-16 Trakgrip 128 tyre.

Fig. 24. Dunlop 7.00-16 Trakgrip T25 tyre.

As alternative equipment, Dunlop 7.00-16 Trakgrip 125 pattern tyres are available, to obtain maximum wheel grip and driving power when operating over soft mud, ploughland and all unprepared surfaces. Although this "tractor" type tyre can be used for short distances on the road, it is essentially an off the road lyre and is not recommended for road work.
The tread form makes both types of tyre "uni-directional". They must be fitted with the 'V' or 'arrow' in the tread pattern pointing forwards at the top of the wheel, to ensure maximum grip and efficient tread cleaning when operating on soft ground.
Two types of road wheel are available for the Land-Rover, a well-base type or a divided type; the divided wheel may readily be identified by the ring of bolts securing the two halves together. Either pattern wheel may be used with 6.00-16 or 7.00-16 tyres. Rubber protection flaps must be fitted when divided wheels are used.


If maximum tyre life and performance are to be obtained, then careful attention must be given to the question of correct tyre pressures.

For NORMAL ROAD AND CROSS-COUNTRY work, tyre pressures must be maintained at -
Front 20 lb. per sq. in. (1,4 Kg./cm2.)
Rear. 26 lb. per sq. in. (1,8 Kg./cm2.)

When LOADS IN EXCESS OF 550 LB. (250 KG.) are carried in the rear of the vehicle, pressures in the REAR TYRES ONLY must be raised to 30 lb. per sq. in. (2,1 Kg./cm2.).

Should it be desired to traverse EXCEPTIONALLY SOFT GROUND, the tyre pressures may be REDUCED to
6.00-16 tyres: 15 lb. per sq. in. (1,O5Kg./cm2.).
7.00-16 tyres: 13 lb. per sq. in. (0,9 Kg. 7cm2.).
6.00-16 tyres: 20 lb. per sq. in. (1,4 Kg./cm2.).
7.00-16 tyres: l8lb. per sq. in. (1,25Kg./cm2.).

These reduced pressures must only be employed when absolutely essential and the pressures MUST BE RETURNED TO NORMAL immediately after the soft ground has been negotiated.

Pressures should be checked weekly, using the pressure gauge included in the tool kit at the same time it is advisable to check the wheel nuts for tightness. In order to obtain accurate pressure readings, the check should be made when the tyres are cold, with the gauge held horizontally.

Any unusual pressure loss should be investigated after making sure that the valve is not at fault, the inner tube should be removed and subjected to a water test.

Owing to the uni-directional treads of the tyres, it may be necessary to reverse the spare tyre on its wheel (depending on which side of the vehicle it is to be fitted) to ensure efficient tread

In the interests of tyre mileages and even wear, it is desirable to change the position of the tyres on the vehicle (including the spare) at intervals of 3,000 miles (5.000 Km.). The front and rear wheels should be interchanged on each side of the vehicle at the same time, the spare wheel should be fitted to give it a spell of duty and one of the other wheels removed to become the spare.

Examine the tyres frequently for flints, nails, etc., which may be embedded in the tread and also for cuts, penetrations and oil. Flints and sharp objects should be removed with a penknife or similar tool; if neglected, the foreign body may work through the cover and puncture the tube.
Oil and grease should not be allowed to get on the tyres. If any should accidentally do so, clean off by using petrol sparingly. Do not use paraffin, which has a very detrimental effect on rubber.
Ensure that valve caps are fitted and screwed down firmly by hand do not use tools as the rubber seating may become damaged if the cap is screwed down too tightly. The valve cap prevents the entry of dirt to the valve mechanism and forms a positive seal on the valve, so preventing leakage even if the valve core is damaged.

Excessive and sudden local distortion of the tyre, such as might result from striking a kerb or loose brick, etc., may cause the casing cords to fracture.
Every effort should be made to avoid obstacles, particularly when drawing up to a kerb or parking against one. Extra precaution should be taken when driving after dark.

Minor injuries confined to the tread rubber, such as from nails, tacks and small pieces of road dressing material, require no attention other than the removal of the object. More severe tread cuts or wall rubber damage require vulcanised repairs, so preventing any extension of the injury. The use of gaiters or liners for the repair of casing injuries should be regarded as a temporary emergency measure and not as a satisfactory substitute for vulcanised repairs.

Inner tube injuries up to 0.25 in. (7 mm.) can be repaired with patches more extensive damage needs a proper vulcanized repair.

The main factors which influence tyre wear are as follows -

2. SPEED. The rate of tyre wear is increased rapidly if high average speeds are maintained habitually.
During wheel slippage, caused by rapid acceleration, excessive tread wear takes place through abrasion of the tyre against the road surface.
5. CLIMATIC CONDITIONS. In the British Isles, the rate of tread wear on the warm, dry roads in summer can be twice as fast as on the cold, wet surfaces common in winter. In certain overseas territories the difference may be even more marked.
6. ROAD SURFACE. Road surfaces vary enormously in their effect upon tyre wear.
7. WHEEL ALIGNMENT. It is most important that correct front wheel alignment be maintained, otherwise the lyre treads will be worn off laterally. The wheel alignment should be checked periodically by your dealer and adjusted if necessary.

Fig. 25. Well-base rim wheel.



NOTE.-Inextensible wires are incorporated in the tyre beads and no attempt must be made to stretch the beads over the rim flanges excessive force is unnecessary as it merely tends to damage the beads.
The operation will be more easily carried out if the cover beads are lubricated liberally with water, preferably with a little soap added. Tyre levers should be dipped before each insertion.


1. Remove the valve cap and core and place them clear of dirt and grit.
2. Press each bead in turn off its bead seat, using tyre levers and working round the lyre in small steps. Two or three circuits of the tyre may be necessary to free the beads completely.
3. Insert a lever at the valve position, and while pulling on this lever, press the bead into the well of the rim diametrically opposite the valve position.
Insert a second lever close to the first and prise the bead over the rim flange, holding the removed portion of the bead with the first lever.
4. Remove one lever and re-insert a little further away from the first lever. Continue round the bead, proceeding in small steps, until the bead is completely removed. Remove the inner tube.
5. Stand the wheel upright and insert a lever between the remaining bead and the rim flange; pull the cover back over the flange. If it is difficult to remove, maintain the pressure on the lever and tap the bead with a rubber mallet where it passes over the top of the flange.


1. Thoroughly examine the cover for nails, flints, etc., and ensure that no loose objects have been left inside. Clean the wheel rim flanges and seatings. Always use the correct size of inner tube, which should bear the same description as the outer cover.
2. Place the cover eccentrically over the rim, positioned so that when the cover and tube are fitted, the white spots near the cover bead will coincide with the black spots on the tube press the lower bead by hand as much as possible into the well of the rim.
3. Insert a lever as closely as possible to the point where the bead passes over the flange and lever the bead over the flange. Repeat until the bead is completely over the flange.
4. Inflate the inner tube until it is just rounded out, dust with French chalk and insert it in the cover with the valve through the hole in the rim, taking care that the valve is on the correct side of the rim.
5. Press the bead into the rim well diametrically opposite the valve and insert a lever as closely as possible to the point where the bead passes over the flange; lever the bead over the flange. Repeat until the bead is in position all round, finishing at the valve position.
6. Push the valve inwards to make sure that the tube adjacent to the valve is not trapped under the bead. Pull the valve firmly back into position and see it protrudes squarely from the rim during inflation. If not, deflate the tyre and adjust the positions of the cover and tube on the rim.
7. Inflate the tyre and ensure that the beads are seated properly by checking the concentricity of the fitting line on the cover with the top of the flange.
8. Remove the valve core to deflate the tube completely, replace and re-inflate to the recommended working pressure. The object of double inflation is to relieve any strain in the tube.


NOTE.-Under no circumstances must the clamping nuts, which hold the two halveso of the wheel together, be slackened unless the tyre is fully deflated. Failure to observe this rule may result in damage to the equipment and involve the risk of personal injury.


1. Remove the valve cap and core to deflate the tyre and place them clear of dirt or grit.
2. Press each bead in turn away from the flange, using levers and working round the tyre in small steps. Two or three circuits of the tyre may be necessary to free the beads completely.
3. Slacken and remove the clamping nuts. Remove the upper half of the wheel. Push the valve through the lower half of the wheel and remove the cover and tube.

1. Thoroughly examine the cover for nails, flints, etc., and ensure that no loose objects have been left inside. Clean the wheel rim flanges and seatings. Always use the correct size of inner tube, which should bear the same description as the outer cover.
2. Inflate the inner tube until it is just rounded out, dust with French chalk and insert it in the cover with the white spots near the cover bead coinciding with the black spots on the tube.
3. Fit the protection flap, starting at the valve position. Make sure that the edges of the flap are not turned over inside the cover and that it lies centrally between the beads. See that the flap fits closely against the tube round the valve.
4. Lay the studded half of the wheel on the floor or bench with the studs pointing upwards. Fit the cover over the wheel and thread the valve through the hole, making sure that it points downwards.
5. Fit the other half of the wheel and tighten the clamping nuts lightly. Finally tighten the nuts in the sequence illustrated. Check that the valve is free and inflate the tyre to the recommended pressure.

Fig. 26. Divided wheel.

In the interests of smooth riding, precise steering and the avoidance of high speed reaction, Dunlop tyres are balanced to close limits. During assembly of the vehicle, small balance weights are then used to attain an even higher degree of balance on wheel and tyre units.

When refitting a tyre after repair, the white spots on the cover bead should be positioned to coincide with the black spots on the inner tube. Should it be desired to regain the original fine degree of balance, your dealer will be able to balance the wheel and tyre assembly.
If inner tubes without the black balancing spots are used for replacement purposes, it is advantageous to fit the covers so that the white spots are at the valve position.

Owners are urged to take full advantage of the facilities offered by the Dunlop tyre service organisation, with its many depots and agencies throughout the world.
When replacement tyres are required, orders should specify Dunlop 6.00-16 Trakgrip T28 or Dunlop 7.00-16 Trakgrip T25 pattern.