COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
It is a good plan to inspect the cooling system at the same time as the engine oil level is checked; such care would largely prevent the possibility of a sudden and costly delay due to coolant loss and consequent engine damage. Attention should be paid to the following points:
1. Water level in radiator-to the bottom of the filler neck.
2. Condition of all hoses-freedom from cracks and hose clips tight.
3. Any other water leaks.
4. Check that the drain taps are fully closed.

FAN BELT ADJUSTMENT
As the fan belt is of the "V" type, the drive is on the sides of the belt and it is not therefore necessary to adjust it tightly and so put an excessive load on the water pump and dynamo bearings; the tension is correct when the belt can be depressed 0.5 to 0.75 in. (12 to 19 mm.) by thumb pressure between the fan and crankshaft pulleys. The procedure for adjustment is as follows:
Slacken the three dynamo pivot bolts and the bolt securing the dynamo to the adjusting link. Move the dynamo outwards until the tension is correct and re-tighten the bolts.

DRAINING THE COOLING SYSTEM
As a precaution against corrosion, the cooling system should be drained and flushed out at least twice each year in the following manner
1. Remove the radiator filler cap.
2. Open the water drain taps at the bottom of the radiator and on the right-hand side of the cylinder block.
3. When the water flow has ceased, insert a piece of wire in each tap, to make sure that a blockage has not been caused by rust or scale.
4. Place a hose in the radiator filler neck and adjust the flow of water to equal that draining from the taps.
5. Run the engine for a short time to ensure thorough cleaning of the whole system.
6. Switch off the engine, remove the hose and close the taps, Refill the system with clean water to the bottom of the filler neck and replace the filler cap. The total capacity is 17 Imperial pints (9,5 litres) on "60" and 21 Imperial pints (12 litres) on "75", "90" and "105" models.
NOTE-Use soft water wherever possible; if the local water supply is hard, rain or distilled water should be used.
7. Run the engine until working temperature is reached and top up the water level as necessary.

Fig. 37. Radiator drain tap.

A-Drain tap.

FROST PRECAUTIONS

In cold weather, when the temperature may drop to or below freezing point, precautions must be taken to prevent freezing of the water in the cooling system.
As a thermostat is fitted in the system, it is possible for the radiator block to freeze in cold weather even though the engine running temperature is quite high; for this reason, the use of an anti-freezing mixture is essential.
Only high quality inhibited glycol-base solutions should be used.
When the temperature is between 32 F. and 14 F. (0 C. and minus 10 C.), use 1 part of antifreeze to 4 parts of water. If the temperature is between 5 F. and 14 F. (minus 10 C. and minus l5 C.) use 1 part of anti-freeze to 3 parts of water.

Proceed as follows:
1. Ensure that the cooling system is leak-proof; anti-freezing solutions are far more "searching" at joints than water.
2. Drain and flush the system as described on this page.
3. Mix the solution to the required strength in a separate container and refill the system.
4. Run the engine to ensure good circulation of the mixture.

When the winter is over, as a precaution against corrosion, the anti-freezing solution should be drained off and the system flushed thoroughly again.
If the car is to be stored in cold weather, unless it is kept in a well-heated garage or anti-freeze solution has been used, the cooling system must be completely drained. After the water has drained out, it is well to run the engine at a fast idling speed for not more than half a minute, so as to dry out any water that may have been retained in the bottom of the jacketing.
Should the radiator require substantial topping up while the anti-freeze is in use, always add a 25% solution, never water only. Any good quality antifreeze mixture can be used.
If the prevailing weather makes the use of antifreeze mixture unnecessary when the vehicle is received, the cooling system must be drained, flushed and refilled as a precaution against corrosion. The yellow labels should be removed from the windscreen and engine when this has been carried out.

WHEELS AND TYRES

TYRE PRESSURES
Tyres should always be maintained at the correct pressures

"60" models
Front: Normal use 25 lb./sq.in. (1,75 kg./cm.sq)
Fully laden 28 lb./sq.in. (1,95 kg./cm.sq)
Rear: Normal use 24 lb./sq.in. (1,7 kg./cm.sq)
Fully laden 30 lb./sq.in. (2,1 kg./cm.sq)

"75", "90" and "105" models
Front: Normal use 28 lb./sq.in. (1,95 kg./cmsq)
Fully laden 30 lb./sq.in. (2,1 kg./cm.sq)
Rear: Normal use 24 lb./sq.in. (1,7 kg./cm.sq)
Fully laden 30 Ib./sq.in. (2,1 kg./cm.sq)

"90" and "105" models-High speed touring (85-90 m.p.h.)
Front: Normal use 34 lb./sq.in. 2,3 kg./cm.sq') Fully laden 34 lb./sq.in. (2,3 kg./cm.sq)
Rear: Normal use 30 lb./sq.in. (2,1 kg.'cm sq) Fully laden 34 lb./sq.in. (2,3 kg. 'cm.sq)

Pressures should be checked and adjusted every month, paying attention to the following points:
1. Whenever possible, check with the tyres cold, as the pressure is about 2 lb. (0,1 kg.) higher at running temperature.
2. Always replace the valve caps, as they form a positive seal on the valves.
3. Any unusual pressure loss (in excess of 1 to 3 lb. (0,05 to 0,20 kg.) per month) should be investigated and corrected.
4. Always check the spare wheel, so that it is ready for use at any time.
5. At the same time, remove embedded flints, etc., from the tyre treads with the aid of a penknife or similar tool. Clean off any oil or grease on the tyres, using petrol sparingly.
6. Check the wheel nuts for tightness.

CHANGING TYRE POSITIONS
To ensure best tyre mileage and even wear, it is desirable that the position of the tyres on the car be changed every 3,000 miles (5.000 km.), either by moving all the wheels round one position or by interchanging front and rear wheels on each side of the car. In either event, the spare wheel should replace one of the road wheels, so that all five tyres are given equal spells of work.

FACTORS AFFECTING TYRE LIFE
The most important factors, among many which have an adverse effect on tyre life, are
1. Incorrect tyre pressures.
2. High average speeds.
3. Harsh acceleration.
4. Frequent hard braking.
5. Warm, dry climatic conditions.
6. Poor road surfaces.
7. Impact fractures caused by striking a kerb or loose brick, etc.
8. Incorrect front wheel alignment. Alignment should be checked periodically by a Rover distributor or dealer and adjusted as necessary.

TYRE REMOVAL
As inextensible wires are incorporated in the beads of the outer cover, the beads must not be stretched over the wheel rim. Great care must be taken to ensure that the beads of tubeless tyres are not damaged on removal. Levers should be kept moistened with water during use. The correct method of tyre removal is as follows:
1. Remove the valve cap and core (using the extractor provided in the tool tray) and deflate the tyre.
2. Press each bead in turn off its seating. Insert a lever at the valve position, andr while pulling on this lever, press the bead into the well diametrically opposite the valve.
3. Insert a second lever close to the first and prise the bead over the wheel rim, Continue round the bead in small steps until it is completely off the rim.

Fig. 39. Tyre removal.

A-Cover bead.
B-Rim shoulder or seating.
C-Rim well.

Tyre fitting
The tyre beads and their rubber surfaces must not be damaged during fitting. Do not use a hammer or mallet.
1. Remove spacers from between the beads.
2. Wipe beads clean with a damp cloth.
3. Moisten tyre beads, rim surfaces and fitting levers with clean water.
4. Fit tyre in normal manner using narrow levers in good condition and free from sharp edges. Take small bites so as not to strain or damage the beads. Exercise particular care to ensure that the rubber bead toes are not torn when lifted over rim flanges.

The second bead should be fitted so that the part nearest the valve goes over the rim last.
Nom.-The white balance spots near the tyre bead should be at the valve position.
Inflation.
1. Remove the inner core from valve.
2. Holding the tyre and wheel upright, bounce the tread of tyre on the ground at several points around its circumference. This will help to snap the beads on to the tapered rim seats and provide a partial seal.
3. Connect air line with valve core still removed and inflate with the wheel and tyre upright. If the first rush of air does not seal the beads, continue to bounce the tyre with the air line attached until the beads are fully home against the rim flanges.
4. Remove air line and fit valve core, then inflate to 50 lbs./sq.in. (3,515 kg/cm.)
5. After testing make sure that the inflation pressure is adjusted to the correct running figure.

N0TE.-If air continues to escape under the beads after bouncing and the tyre cannot be inflated, use one of the following methods to seat beads.

Testing for leaks

A few minutes after inflating, immerse the tyre and wheel in a water tank and check for air leaks.

1. Place assembly in tank with valve uppermost. Submerge valve and check,

2. Release and allow the assembly to float, with channel between the rim flange and tyre filled with water. Check carefully for air bubbles above the rim flange.

3. Turn wheel assembly over and submerge wheel rivets if they are not already under water. Check for leaks at rivets.

4. Submerge the assembly to fill between flange and tyre then allow to float, Check for air bubbles at rim flange.

1. With the tool in open position, buckle the strap centrally around the tread of the deflated tyre and wheel assembly. Pull strap through buckle as tightly as possible.

3. With valve core removed, attach the air line and inflate until the beads are sealed against the flanges. If they fail to seal at the first attempt, move the handle back and re-tighten the strap. When the beads are home disconnect the air supply and fit the valve core, then remove the tourniquet before final inflation.
4. To remove the tourniquet, move the handle back and press the thumb on the end of the buckle- pushing the slider bar on the buckle inwards and upwards.
5. Inflate to 50 lb./sq.in. (3,515 kg/cm.) and test.
6. After testing make sure that the inflation pressure is adjusted to the correct running figure.

NOTE: (a) An efficient hand or foot pump will inflate a tubeless tyre when a tourniquet is available.
(b) A tourniquet may be improvised from a length of rope and a twisting bar.

METHOD 2,

This method is usually effective if bouncing fails and a tourniquet is not available.

1. With tyre on rim, wipe beads and rim seat dry.
2. Lean tyre and wheel against a wall at an angle greater than 450

Repair of small penetrations
Normally a tubeless tyre will not leak when penetrated by a nail or other normal puncturing object, provided that it is left in the tyre.
These objects should be withdrawn every 2,000 or 3,000 miles, at a time when loss of air will cause least inconvenience. If they are left in the tyre indefinitely, the original injuries may extend and cause more serious damage and possibly a road delay.
The tyre can be repaired without complete deflation or removal from rim by using a Dunlop "Reddiplug" repair kit as follows:-
1. Mark the point of penetration and extract the puncturing object, noting the angle of entry. If the tyre is leaking and the cause of puncture cannot be located by usual inspection, the inflated tyre should be immersed in water to facilitate location.
2. Dip the needle into flask of solution and insert through the hole in the tyre following same direction as puncturing object. Repeat until the hole is well moistened with solution.
3. Select a plug about twice the diameter of the puncturing object, then stretch and roll into the eye of the needle.
4. Dip plug into solution then press the plug and needle through hole in tyre, again following direction of original penetration.
5. Withdraw needle and cut off surplus plug about ~ in. (3,1749 mm.) from surface of tread.

Note: More severe injuries, which are outside the scope of simple puncture repair methods, are dealt with in a manner similar to that used on conventional tyre covers.

WHEEL AND TYRE BALANCE
Wheel and tyre units are accurately balanced on initial assembly with the aid of small weights secured to the inner side of the wheel slot flanges by means of set bolts. In the interests of smooth riding and even tyre wear, it is advantageous for a Rover distributor or dealer to check the balance whenever a tyre is refitted.
If the clip-on type of balance weights are fitted to the wheel rim, it is possible that they may become dislodged during tyre removal or replacement. If they find their way into the outer cover and are overlooked, damage will be caused to inner tube and outer cover.
The weights should therefore be taken off before removal of the tyre; if equipment is not available for subsequent balancing of the assembled wheel, the position and size of the balance weights should be marked on the rim, so that they may be replaced in their original positions.