IN CASE OF TROUBLE:
LOCATION AND REMEDY OF FAULTS

Although every precaution is taken to eliminate all possible causes of trouble, failure may occasionally develop through lack of attention to the equipment, or damage to the wiring. The following pages set out the recommended procedure for a systematic examination to locate and remedy the causes of some of the more probable faults which may occur during the life of the car.
All the checks listed can be readily carried out without special equipment; if the fault is not located in this way, consult the local Rover distributor or dealer, who will be able to investigate the defect more closely.

ENGINE FAILS TO START

1. Check that the ignition is switch is ON.

2. Check that there is sufficient petrol in the tank.

3. Check that the cold start control is set correctly for starting.

4. Check that the engine is being turned at an adequate speed by the starter motor; this speed will be recognised after some experience with the car.
If the cranking speed is too low:
(i) Check the battery connections for tightness and cleanliness.
(ii) Check the state of charge of the battery by switching on the headlamps and pressing the starter button; if the headlamps go out or very dim when the starter is operated, the battery requires recharging from an independent electrical supply.
It should be possible to start the engine by cranking with the starting handle.

5. Remove the cable from each sparking plug terminal in turn and hold it so that the end is about 0.25 in. (7 mm.) away from some metal part of the chassis, while the engine is turned over; if sparks jump the gap regularly, the coil and distributor are functioning correctly.
(i) If the sparks are strong and regular, remove and clean the sparking plugs and reset the electrode gaps to .029 to .032 in. (0,75 to 0,80 mm.).
(ii) If the sparks are NOT regular:
(a) Check that the distributor rotor is in position and is not cracked.
(b) Check that the L.T. connections on the coil and distributor are clean and tight.
Check that the distributor points are:
1. Clean.
2. Opening and closing correctly.
3. Correctly set when open-gap .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm.).
(d) Check that current is present at the SW terminal on the coil, by disconnecting the wire at the coil end and touching it against the SW terminal, with the ignition switch ON and the distributor contact-breaker points closed. If sparks occur, low tension current is flowing through the coil correctly; if there is NO spark, either the coil or the low tension wiring is defective and your dealer should be consulted.
(iii) If the sparks are weak and in addition there is a flashing at the distributor contact breaker points, a faulty distributor condenser is indicated.
(iv) If the sparks are present on some leads, but not on others, check the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for faulty insulation.

6. Disconnect the petrol pipe from the carburetter(s) and check that petrol is delivered, when the ignition is switched on. If petrol is not delivered from the pipe:
(i) Check that the pump "ticks" when the ignition is on, with the pipe still disconnected. If not, the fault is probably in the pump wiring.
(ii) Check that the petrol pipes and filters are clear (see Pages 28-29).
(iii) Check that there are no air leaks in the suction line to the petrol pump (see Page 28).

ENGINE STARTS BUT SOON STOPS

1. Check that the controls are set correctly.

2. Check the petrol feed to the carburetter(s) by disconnecting the pipe from the carburetter(s) and noting the petrol flow with the ignition switched on.
If there is little or no flow:
(i) Check the petrol level in the tank.
(ii) Check that the air vent in the filler neck is clear.
(iii) Check the petrol pump for correct operation (see Page 28).
(iv) Check that the petrol filters are clear (see Pages
28-29).
(v) Check that the petrol pipes are clear (see Page 28).

3. Check that a carburetter piston is not sticking (see Page
30).
4. Remove the carburetter float chamber cover(s) and check that there is no water in the float chamber.
5. Check for a fault in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire between the "A" connection on the voltage control box
and the "SW" connection on the coil, thus by-passing the ignition switch. At the same time, the wire from the ignition switch must be disconnected from the coil.

ENGINE MISFIRES

Engine running on less than four or six cylinders, either intermittently or continually.
1. Stop the engine and endeavour to re-start with the starter motor to check the state of the battery and connections.
If the battery is in a low state of charge, it will need recharging from an independent electrical supply, and the charging circuit should be checked as directed under CHARGING CIRCUIT below.

2. Remove the lead from each sparking plug in turn and check:
(i) By holding the end of the lead about ~ in. (7 mm.) away from a metal part of the engine with the engine running.
Sparks should jump the gap regularly.
If NO SPARK is present on one or more cylinders:
(a) Check for moisture on the H.T. leads or distributor.
(b) Check, clean and reset the distributor contact-breaker points to .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm.) as necessary.
(c) Check the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for faulty insulation.

If the SPARK is IRREGULAR on all cylinders:
(a) Check for moisture as in (i) (a).
(b) Check the distributor points as in (i) (b).
(c) Check rotor arm for cracks.
(d) Check the cap and leads as in (i) (c).
{e) Check the L.T. connections for tightness and cleanliness.
(f) Check for flashing or "blueing" of the contactbreaker points. If present, the distributor condenser should be renewed.
(g) Check for a fault in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire between the "A" connection on the voltage regulator box and the "SW" connection on the coil, thus by-passing the ignition switch. At the same time, the wire from the ignition switch must be disconnected from the coil.
(ii) For any audible alteration in the running of the engine, as each lead is removed. No alteration will indicate that the sparking plug in question is at fault:
(a) Remove and clean the plug; reset the gap to .029 to .032 in. (0,75 to 0,80 mm.) as necessary.
(b) If still faulty, fit a new sparking plug.

3. If the "missing" is accompanied by "spitting back" through the carburetter(s) a valve may be sticking. This can often be cured by slowly dropping oil or upper cylinder lubricant into the carburetter intake, while the engine is running.

LACK OF ENGINE POWER

1. Check that the throttle is opening fully.

2. Check that the brakes are not binding and that the tyre pressures are correct.

3. Check that a carburetter piston is not sticking.

4. Check the ignition timing.

5. Check the tappet adjustment.

6. If items 1-5 are satisfactory, it is probable that the engine needs decarbonising, and your Rover distributor or dealer should be consulted.

CHARGING CIRCUIT

1. Battery in low state of charge.
(a) This state will be shown by lack of power when starting, poor light from the lamps and hydrometer readings below 1.200, and may be due to the dynamo either not charging or giving low or intermittent output. Check the ammeter reading when the vehicle is running steadily in top gear with no lights in use; a definite steady charge should be indicated. The ignition warning light will not go out if the dynamo fails to charge, or will flicker on and off in the event of intermittent output.
(b) Examine the charging and field circuit wiring, tightening any loose connections, or replacing broken cables. Pay particular attention to the battery connections.
(c) Examine the fan and dynamo driving belt; take up any undue slackness by turning the dynamo on its mounting (see Page 30).
(d) If the cause of the trouble is not apparent, have the equipment examined at a service depot.

2. Battery overcharged.

This will be indicated by burnt-out bulbs very frequent need for topping-up of battery and high hydrometer readings. Check the ammeter reading when the car is running steadily-with a fully charged battery and no lights or accessories in use, the charge reading should be of the order of only 3-4 amperes. If the ammeter reading is in excess of this value, it is advisable to have the regulator setting tested and adjusted if necessary at a service depot.

STARTER MOTOR

1. Starter motor lacks power or fails to turn engine.
(a) See if the engine can be turned over by hand. If not, the cause of the stiffness of the engine must be located and remedied.
(b) If the engine can be turned by hand, check that the trouble is not due to a discharged battery.
(c) Examine the connections to battery, starter and starter switch, making sure that they are tight and that the cables connecting these units are not damaged.
(d) It is also possible that the starter pinion may have jammed in mesh with the flywheel, although this is by no means a common occurrence. To disengage the pinion, pull off the dust cap and rotate the squared end of the starter shaft by means of a spanner.

2. Starter operates, but does not crank engine.
This fault will occur if the pinion of the starter drive is not allowed to move along the screwed sleeve into engagement with the flywheel, due to dirt having collected on the screwed sleeve. Clean the sleeve carefully with paraffin.

3. Starter pinion will not disengage from flywheel when engine is running.
Stop the engine, and ascertain if the starter pinion is jammed in mesh with the flywheel. Release it, if necessary, by withdrawing the dust cap and rotating the squared end of the starter shaft in the opposite direction to normal rotation. If the pinion persists in sticking in mesh, have the equipment examined at a service depot. Serious damage may result to the starter if it is driven by the flywheel.

LIGHTING CIRCUITS

1. Lamps give insufficient illumination.
(a) Test the state of charge of the battery, recharging it if necessary either by a long period of day-time running or from an independent electrical supply.
(b) Check the setting of the headlamps (see Page 37).
(c) If the bulbs are discoloured as a result of long service, they should be replaced.

2. Lamps light when switched on, but gradually fade out.
As para. 1 (a).

3. Brilliance varies with speed of car.
(a) As para. 1 (a).
(b) Examine the battery connections, making sure that they are tight; replace faulty cables.

4. Lights flicker
Examine the circuits of the lamps for loose connections.

5. Failure of lights
(a) As para. 1(a).
(b) Examinate the wiring for a loose or broken connection and remedy.