Section B



All items of regular or occasional maintenance are listed below in terms of mileage which would apply in a temperate climate under normal road conditions. Climatic and operating conditions affect maintenance intervals to a large extent; in many cases, therefore, the determination of such intervals must be left to the good judgment of the owner, but the recommendations will serve as a firm basis for maintenance work.
To ensure that the correct procedure is followed as each item is dealt with, it is most important that attention be transferred in turn to the appropriate page as indicated. In addition, these notes concerning more frequent attention to certain important lubrication points should be read carefully to ensure long and efficient service from the car.

ENGINE. Under adverse conditions, such as driving over dusty roads or where short runs are made in cold weather, the first and subsequent oil changes must be more frequent.

AIR CLEANER. When the car is driven over dusty roads, attention must be more frequent.

GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL. It is essential to change oil much more frequently than indicated if the car is operated under bad conditions.

PROPELLER SHAFTS. Under tropical or severe conditions, particularly where sand is encountered, the sliding joint must be lubricated very frequently to prevent ingress of abrasive materials.

Note.-Absolute cleanliness is essential when changing, refilling or topping up oil in engine gearbox, back axle, etc. This is particularly important when dealing with the overdrive unit, as any foreign matter that enters may seriously affect the hydraulic operation of the overdrive.


1. TYRES. Check tyre pressures Inspect tyre. treads (Page 32).

EVERY 250 MILES (500 Km.)
1. ENGINE. Replenish oil level in sump as necessary.

AT FIRST 750 MILES (1.000 Km.)
1. Distributor or dealer will carry out the first service inspection as detailed on the Free Service Card. (See Page 17 for details.)

AT FIRST 1,500 MILES (2.500 Km.)
1. Distributor or dealer will carry out the second service inspection as detailed on the Free Service Card. (See Page 17 for details.)

EVERY 3,000 MILES (5.000 Km.)
1. ENGINE. Drain the sump and refill with fresh oil (Page 20). Clean the breather filters (Page 21).
2. GEARBOX. Replenish oil level as necessary (Page 23).
3. REAR AXLE. Replenish oil level as necessary (Page 25).
4. STEERING BOX. Replenish oil level as necessary (Page 25).
5. PROPELLER SHAFTS. Lubricate the sliding joints and journals (Page 24).
6. DISTRIBUTOR. Lubricate (Page 36).
7. FUEL SYSTEM. Lubricate carburetter hydraulic damper (Page 29). Clean oil bath air filter (see Page 29).
8. WHEELS. Change round all wheels (Page 32).
9. DOORS. Lubricate hinges and catches.
10. BATTERY. Check acid level and clean terminals (Page 34).

EVERY 6,000 MILES(10.000 Km.)
1. ENGINE. Check or replace sparking plugs (Page 22).
2. ENGINE. Renew the external oil filter element (Page 20).
3. ENGINE. Clean the oil pump intake filter (Page 21).
4. DISTRIBUTOR. Clean and check contact points (Page 36).
5. FUEL SYSTEM. Clean the air cleaner, oil- wetted gauze and felt element type (Page 28).
6. LAMPS. Check for correct operation.

(EVERY 9,000 MILES (15.000 Km.)
1. GEARBOX. Drain and refill with fresh oil (Page 23).
2. REAR AXLE. Drain and refill with fresh oil (Page 25).
3. FRONT HUBS. Check lubrication (Page 25).
4. SWIVEL PINS. Check lubrication (Page 26).
5. STEERING BALL JOINTS. Check that the rubber boots on the steering ball joints have not become dislodged and the joints damaged (see Page 25).

EVERY 12,000 MILES (20.000 Km.)
1. REAR AXLE. Check tightness of U bolts (Page 26).
2. PROPELLER SHAFTS. Check tightness of securing bolts (Page 25).
3. BODY. Check tightness of body securing bolts, wing bolts, etc.
4. DYNAMO. Inject a few spots of oil in the dynamo end bearing. (See Page 36).

EVERY 18,000 MILES (30.000 Km.)
1. ENGINE. Clean sump filters. (See Page 21).

Check headlamp beam setting. (See Page 37).

EVERY 27,000 MILES (45.000 Km.) OR TWO YEARS
1. FRONT HUBS. Dismantle, clean and re-pack with grease (see Page 25).


1. COOLING SYSTEM. Replenish water level (Page 30). Adjust fan belt tension (Page 31).
2. BRAKES. Replenish fluid level in supply tank (Page 26).
3. GENERAL. Apply a few spots of oil to all exposed joints such as throttle joints, clutch linkage, door locks and hinges, etc. Inspect wiring and pipes for signs of chafing which might cause "shorts" or leaks.
NOTE-Lubricate the door hinges with an oilcan applied at the grooves on top of the hinge leaves.
The door cheek straps can be lubricated as follows: Pull out the trim case adjacent to the check strap, remove waterproof paper covering oil hole. Apply a little heavy engine oil or grease to the check strap and clip.
4. CLUTCH. Adjust free pedal movement (Page 22).
5. FUEL SYSTEM. Clean sediment bowl (Page 29). Clean pump and carburetter filter (Pages 28 and 29).
6. ENGINE. Adjust tappet clearances (Page22).
7. FREEWHEEL CABLE. "60", "75" and 1954-55 "90". Adjust cable (Page 23).
8. STEERING BOX. Adjust steering box (Page 25).
9. FUEL SYSTEM. Check that the petrol filler air vent felt is not choked. Replace if necessary.

It is not possible to lay down a hard and fast rule concerning the mileage intervals at which the engine should be decarbonised and the valves ground in, for it is not actually necessary to carry out the operation until there is a "fall-off" in performance.
The point at which this condition is reached will vary under different conditions of service and some difficulty may be experienced in detecting it, Should this be the case, seek advice from the nearest Rover distributor or dealer.


One of the most important factors in the performance and durability of any car is its lubrication. The responsibility for correct lubrication attention rests mainly on the driver; for this reason, the relative instructions set out in this section of the manual should be followed carefully.
The instructions are complete and any part of the car not specifically mentioned does not require routine attention in this respect.
The recommended lubricants are detailed on Page 37 of this manual; as a result of exhaustive tests, they have been found pre-eminently suitable for Rover cars and should be used wherever possible. When ordering oil, the correct grade, as well as the make, should be clearly stated.

No responsibility can be taken for damage arising from the use of any additive to the recommended lubricants.
The oils selected are complete in themselves and afford every protection. A warning is necessary against the addition of any oils or other products, as these may materially impair the character of the lubricant in use.



The Rover Company feels that there are many owners who may not be fully aware of certain changes which have come about in engine design and manufacturing technique, and the characteristics of modern engine lubricants.
The Rover Company, in common with other manufacturers, expects from a new engine a definite consumption of engine oil.
It is usually a characteristic that in the early life of an engine the consumption of oil will be higher than subsequently and it is quite normal for consumption figures to improve up to and even beyond 6,000 miles (9.600 km.).
The reason for the heavier consumption when new is that as the piston rings bed in so is the consumption reduced. This consumption of oil in the early stages of the engine's life is a desirable characteristic, aiding as it does the effective running in of pistons, rings and cylinder bores, resulting in subsequent longevity.
It should also be realised that with the trend towards modern thinner lubricants, which is in itself a highly desirable feature, there may be some tendency for the consumption also to be slightly increased.
Owners when checking oil consumption should make quite sure that the check is made with the engine cold and the car standing on level ground, otherwise a false reading may result.

Over-filling an engine with lubricating oil has no advantages and can quite easily result in a loss of lubricant, giving a completely misleading impression.
It is also unnecessary to top-up oil in the sump for every half pint (0,25 litre) that may be consumed, but topping-up should not be delayed after the oil level has, or is likely to reach in the course of current running, the low mark on the dipstick.

The oil level dipstick is on the right-hand side of the engine on "60" and on the left-hand side of the engine on "75", "90" and "105" models. It is accessible when the bonnet panel is raised and carries two marks, H (high) and L (low). The oil level must be maintained as near the H mark as possible and must never fall below the L mark. The oil filler is at the left-hand front corner of the engine.

Fig. 15. Engine oil filter and dipstick. ("75", "90" and "105")
To check the oil level, proceed as follows:
Stand the car on level ground and allow a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the sump from the valve gear, etc. Withdraw the dipstick upwards, wipe it clean, re-insert to its full depth and remove a second time to take the reading. Add oil as necessary; never fill above the H mark, as the engine may then require more frequent decarbonisation.

The oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel will glow when the ignition is switched on and will go out when the engine has started.
The light may flicker when the engine is running at idling speed, but providing it fades out immediately the engine is speeded up the oil pressure can be considered satisfactory.
Should the warning light appear at any time when the engine is running, stop the engine immediately and investigate the cause; usually it will be due to low oil level in the sump or, occasionally, to a choked oil sump filter.

Should there be any doubt about the oil pressure, always check with a slave gauge connected at the oil pressure switch position.

When the vehicle leaves the factory, engine oil of a grade suitable for a temperate climate is in use.
Except under tropical or extreme winter conditions, the first engine oil change should be made at 750 miles (1.000 km.); under such conditions the oil should be changed to the appropriate grade immediately upon receipt of the car and then changed again at 750 miles (1.000 km.).
Thereafter, under good conditions, the oil should be changed at regular intervals.

Fig. 16. Engine oil drain plug and sump filter. ("75", "90" and "105")

A-Drain plug.
B-Pump intake filter (inside sump on "60").
C-Level gauge unit.

To change the engine oil, proceed as follows:
Run the engine to warm up the oil, switch off the ignition and remove the drain plug in the bottom right-hand corner of the sump. Allow time for the oil to drain away completely and replace the plug.
Refill with oil of the correct grade through the filler at the left-hand front of the engine; the capacity is 10 Imperial pints (5,5 litres) on "60" and 15 Imperial pints (8,5 litres) on "75", "90" and "105" models.

In addition to the gauze pump intake filter in the sump, the oil is cleaned by means of a full-flow pressure filter mounted externally on the engine, "60", "75", (1955 onwards) "90" and "105". For 1954 "75" see overleaf.
'60', '75' (1955 onwards), '90' and '105'

The filter element of the full-flow filter must be renewed at regular intervals (see Page 18) in the following manner:
Unscrew the bolt in the bottom of the filter container and remove the container complete with the filter element. Remove and discard the used filter element and large rubber washer. Wash the container in petrol. Place the new filter element in the container and reassemble the unit, using the new large rubber washer supplied with the element. Ensure that all the sealing washers are in position and intact and that the container is correctly located in the top cover.

Fig. 17. Engine oil filter and dipstick ("60").
A-Dipstick. B-Oil filter.
1954 "75" models are fitted with a by-pass filter, located on the L.H. side of the cylinder head. See Fig. 18.

1954 '75'
In addition to the gauze pump intake filter in the sump, the oil is cleaned by means of a Wipac by-pass pressure filter mounted externally on the engine.

This filter unit must be renewed complete at intervals of 6,000 miles (10.000 km.) in the following manner; it cannot be dismantled: Unscrew the used filter by hand and remove the
sealing washer from the cylinder head boss; fit the new washer and screw on the replacement filter by hand. Run the engine for five minutes and check for oil leaks, which can be cured by re-tightening the filter by hand. Top-up the engine oil level as necessary.
If, during service, the filter fails to clean the oil and is cold to the touch after running, the restrictor in the mounting boss may be blocked; it can be cleaned by removing the filter and passing a fine piece of wire through the outlet orifice in the boss.

Fig. 18. Engine oil filter, breather filter and filler, 1954 '75'.

A-Oil filler. B-Oil filter. C-Breather filter.
At regular intervals (see Page 18) remove the sump filter by removing the sump in the case of "60" models and by unscrewing the large brass plug to the rear of the drain plug in the case of"75","90"and"105"models. Clean the filter in petrol, using a stiff brush, and swill out the sump, if removed.

Refill with oil of the correct grade.

Run the engine for five minutes and check for oil leaks. Top up the engine oil level as necessary.
When a new external filter is fitted, 11 Imperial pints (6 litres) of oil are required to refill the engine in the case of "60" models, and 16 Imperial pints (9 litres) of oil in the case of "75", "90" and "105" models.

The oil-wetted gauze filters fitted to the top rocker cover breather and oil filler pipe on "
60" and to the engine top rocker cover breather outlet only on "75", "90" and "105" models should be cleaned at regular intervals (see Page 17) in the following manner:
Remove the filter and wash the gauze by swilling the unit in a dish of petrol; re-wet the gauze by dipping in clean engine oil and shake off the surplus. On "60" models, the top filter should be replaced with its slot facing the front and the side filter with its slot facing the rear of the vehicle. On "75" "90" and "105" models, the filter should be replaced with the slot facing the front of the vehicle.


Ignition and valve timing is based on markings on the engine flywheel which are visible, adjacent to a pointer, under the inspection cover on the right-hand side of the flywheel housing.

Fig. 19. Flywheel markings.

The markings and their meanings are as follows:
1. The line against which the letters T.D.C. are stamped, when brought opposite the pointer, indicates that No. 1 (front) piston is at top dead centre, i.e., at the top of its stroke.
2. The line against which the letters F.A.10 degrees, "60", "75" and "90" models, and F.A.3 degrees, "105" models, are stamped, when set opposite the pointer, indicates the firing-point of No. 1 cylinder, i.e., the position at which the distributor points should be just opening, with the rotor in the firing position for No. 1 cylinder.
3. The line against which the letters E.P. are stamped, when set opposite the pointer, indicates the point at which No. 1 exhaust valve should be at the peak of its lift (fully open). It is 114 degrees before T.D.C. (31 flywheel teeth).

NOTE-Should the pointer be removed, it is essential that it is replaced pointing towards the front of the vehicle as shown in Fig. 19.

In addition to automatic timing advance mechanism, the distributor incorporates a hand setting control, known as the octane selector. This comprises a calibrated slide controlled by a knurled wheel which, when rotated in a clockwise direction, draws the vacuum unit diaphragm towards the distributor and so retards the ignition. See Fig. 48.

When the car leaves the works, the octane selector is set so that the fourth line from the left-hand side of the calibrated slide is against the face of the distributor body casting.

This setting is correct for premium fuel and with a clean engine, but should pinking develop as a result of the need for decarbonising, the control can be retarded a little by turning the screw in a clockwise direction. Do not forget to return it to the original position after decarbonising.
In certain countries very low grade fuel is supplied, in which case it may be necessary to adjust the octane selector to avoid pinking, even with a clean engine.

Should the distributor have been disturbed, the ignition timing must be reset as follows
1. Set the contact breaker point gap to .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm.) with the points fully open.
2. Rotate the engine in the running direction until the letters F.A.100,"60","75" and "90" models, and F.A.3 degrres, "105" models, on the flywheels are in line with the pointer, with both valves on No. 1 cylinder closed.
3. The distributor rotor will now correspond with No. 1 cylinder high tension lead terminal.
4. Set the octane selector so that the fourth line from the left-hand side of the calibrated slide is against the face of the distributor body casting.
5. Slacken the pinch bolt at the base of the distributor head; rotate the distributor bodily in the opposite direction to the arrow on the rotor arm until the contact breaker points are just opening with the fibre cam follower on the leading side of the cam; re-tighten the pinch bolt.

It is most important that tappet clearances be maintained at the correct figure and adjustment is therefore provided on each valve rocker. If anything less than the correct clearance is used, a fall in power output will follow, while greater clearance will mean noisy tappets.

Fig. 21. Exhaust tappet
A-Tappet adjusting screw.
C-Feeler gauge.
Fig. 20. Inlet tappet adjustment.

A-Tappet adjusting screw.
C-Feeler gauge.
The correct clearance is .008 in. (0,20 mm.) on the inlet valves and .012 in. (0,30 mm.) on the exhaust valves, with the engine at running temperature. The cylinder firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 on "60" and 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 on "75","90" and "105" models.

To carry out tappet adjustment, proceed as follows
1.Run the engine until it is at normal running temperature.
2. Rotate the engine in the running direction until the valve receiving attention is fully open and then move the engine one complete turn, to bring the tappet on to the back of the cam,
3. Check the tappet clearance with a feeler gauge. If adjustment is required, slacken the locknut and rotate the tappet adjusting screw until the clearance is correct; re-tighten the locknut, taking care to ensure that this operation does not upset the clearance,
4. Repeat for the other valves in turn.


The sparking plugs are fitted with plastic covers retained in the cylinder head by rubber rings. To gain access to the plugs for cleaning and gap-setting, pull up the plug covers, without detaching them from the high tension leads.
The correct gap at the plug electrodes is .029 to .032 in. (0,75 to 0,80 mm.); they should be checked periodically and adjusted as necessary.