ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR WORK
SUMMARY OF POINTS REQUIRING MAINTENANCE ATTENTION
All items of regular
or occasional maintenance are listed below in terms of mileage which would
apply in a temperate climate under normal road conditions. Climatic and
operating conditions affect maintenance intervals to a large extent; in
many cases, therefore, the determination of such intervals must be left
to the good judgment of the owner, but the recommendations will serve
as a firm basis for maintenance work.
ENGINE. Under adverse conditions, such as driving over dusty roads or where short runs are made in cold weather, the first and subsequent oil changes must be more frequent.
AIR CLEANER. When the car is driven over dusty roads, attention must be more frequent.
GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL. It is essential to change oil much more frequently than indicated if the car is operated under bad conditions.
PROPELLER SHAFTS. Under tropical or severe conditions, particularly where sand is encountered, the sliding joint must be lubricated very frequently to prevent ingress of abrasive materials.
USE ONLY THE RECOMMENDED
LUBRICANTS LISTED ON PAGE 40.
EVERY 250 MILES (500
AT FIRST 750 MILES
AT FIRST 1,500 MILES
EVERY 3,000 MILES
EVERY 6,000 MILES(10.000
EVERY 12,000 MILES
EVERY 18,000 MILES
EVERY 6 MONTHS
EVERY 27,000 MILES
(45.000 Km.) OR TWO YEARS
POINTS REQUIRING OCCASIONAL ATTENTION AS FOUND NECESSARY
1. COOLING SYSTEM.
Replenish water level (Page 30). Adjust fan belt tension (Page 31).
ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION
Over-filling an engine
with lubricating oil has no advantages and can quite easily result in
a loss of lubricant, giving a completely misleading impression.
|Fig. 15. Engine oil filter and dipstick. ("75", "90" and "105")|
check the oil level, proceed as follows:
Stand the car on level ground and allow a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the sump from the valve gear, etc. Withdraw the dipstick upwards, wipe it clean, re-insert to its full depth and remove a second time to take the reading. Add oil as necessary; never fill above the H mark, as the engine may then require more frequent decarbonisation.
ENGINE OIL CHANGES
Fig. 16. Engine oil drain plug and sump filter. ("75",
"90" and "105")
change the engine oil, proceed as follows:
Run the engine to warm up the oil, switch off the ignition and remove the drain plug in the bottom right-hand corner of the sump. Allow time for the oil to drain away completely and replace the plug.
Refill with oil of the correct grade through the filler at the left-hand front of the engine; the capacity is 10 Imperial pints (5,5 litres) on "60" and 15 Imperial pints (8,5 litres) on "75", "90" and "105" models.
The filter element
of the full-flow filter must be renewed at regular intervals (see Page
18) in the following manner:
|Fig. 17. Engine oil filter and
A-Dipstick. B-Oil filter.
"75" models are fitted with a by-pass filter, located on the L.H.
side of the cylinder head. See Fig. 18.
This filter unit must
be renewed complete at intervals of 6,000 miles (10.000 km.) in the following
manner; it cannot be dismantled: Unscrew the used filter by hand and remove
|Fig. 18. Engine oil filter, breather
filter and filler, 1954 '75'.
A-Oil filler. B-Oil filter. C-Breather filter.
regular intervals (see Page 18) remove the sump filter by removing the sump
in the case of "60" models and by unscrewing the large brass plug
to the rear of the drain plug in the case of"75","90"and"105"models.
Clean the filter in petrol, using a stiff brush, and swill out the sump,
Refill with oil of the correct grade.
Run the engine for
five minutes and check for oil leaks. Top up the engine oil level as necessary.
Fig. 19. Flywheel markings.
markings and their meanings are as follows:
1. The line against which the letters T.D.C. are stamped, when brought opposite the pointer, indicates that No. 1 (front) piston is at top dead centre, i.e., at the top of its stroke.
2. The line against which the letters F.A.10 degrees, "60", "75" and "90" models, and F.A.3 degrees, "105" models, are stamped, when set opposite the pointer, indicates the firing-point of No. 1 cylinder, i.e., the position at which the distributor points should be just opening, with the rotor in the firing position for No. 1 cylinder.
3. The line against which the letters E.P. are stamped, when set opposite the pointer, indicates the point at which No. 1 exhaust valve should be at the peak of its lift (fully open). It is 114 degrees before T.D.C. (31 flywheel teeth).
NOTE-Should the pointer be removed, it is essential that it is replaced pointing towards the front of the vehicle as shown in Fig. 19.
When the car leaves the works, the octane selector is set so that the fourth line from the left-hand side of the calibrated slide is against the face of the distributor body casting.
This setting is correct
for premium fuel and with a clean engine, but should pinking develop as
a result of the need for decarbonising, the control can be retarded a
little by turning the screw in a clockwise direction. Do not forget to
return it to the original position after decarbonising.
Should the distributor
have been disturbed, the ignition timing must be reset as follows
|Fig. 21. Exhaust tappet
A-Tappet adjusting screw.
|Fig. 20. Inlet tappet
A-Tappet adjusting screw.
correct clearance is .008 in. (0,20 mm.) on the inlet valves and .012 in.
(0,30 mm.) on the exhaust valves, with the engine at running temperature.
The cylinder firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 on "60" and 1, 5, 3, 6,
2, 4 on "75","90" and "105" models.
To carry out tappet
adjustment, proceed as follows