Jacking the car, all models

Four tubular jacking brackets are fitted under the body lower rail, behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels.

To raise one corner of the car:
1. Remove the rubber dust excluder from the appropriate jacking point.
2. Fit the pivoted extension on the jack well home into the bracket.
This extension can be lowered or raised by turning the handle either one way or the other.
3. Turn the handle until the road wheel is clear of the ground. To lower the car, reverse these operations.

If it is desired to raise the car with means other than those supplied, suitable jacking points are:
Front: Under the centre of the front cross-member.
Rear: Under the jack pad below boot floor, at the reverse lamp mounting.

Do not jack up under the de Dion tube.

B-Rubber plug the car

Cars with spare wheel location on boot lid

When it is necessary to fit the spare wheel to the boot lid, proceed as follows:
1. Open the boot lid and support by prop rod.
2. Lift off spare wheel cover.
3. Early models. Prise off the hub cover plate using the flat end of the wheel brace.
4. Unscrew locking wheel and lift out spare wheel.
5. Remove locating cup by turning anti-clockwise.
6. To remove motif from boot lid, first pull locking blade down- this is located inside the boot directly under the spare wheel motif.
7. Release prop rod, then lower boot lid and remove the motif by turning it anti-clockwise and lifting off.
8. Register locating cup on the boot lid, turn clockwise to tighten.
9. Place spare wheel, with the outside downwards, over locating cup on boot lid.
10. Secure with locking wheel.
11. Fit motif to locking wheel, turn clockwise to tighten.
12. Early models. Fit hub cover plate.
Late models. Place PVC cover over the spare wheel.
13. Lift boot lid by means of exterior handle and support with prop rod. Then release locking blade into slot.
14. If necessary the spare wheel support arm in the boot can be ~ -stored tinder the trim. Remove retaining bolt, place support in horizontal position. Refit and tighten bolt. Release prop rod then close boot lid.
15. To remove the spare wheel from boot lid and refit inside the boot, reverse removal procedure.

Spare wheel in boot
A-Hub cover plate,
early models
B-Locking wheel
C-Spare wheel
D-Locating cup
E-Support arm

Motif on boot lid
A-Locking blade

Spare wheel on boot
A-Locating cup
B-Spare wheel
C-Locking wheel
E-Hub cover plate, early models

Support arm for spare wheel
A-Support arm poseition for fitting spare wheel
B-Support arm in stowed position

Wheel changing, all models
Disc Wheels
1. Prise off the hub cover plate, using the flat end of the wheel brace.
2. Slacken the five double-ended wheel nuts.
3. Jack up the corner of the car.
4. Remove the nuts and gently withdraw the wheel over the studs.
5. If available, place a drop of oil on the stud threads, to assist in subsequent removal.
6. Fit the wheel, tighten the nuts as much as possible then lower the car to the ground and lock the nuts securely.
7. Replace the hub cover plate.

Wire Wheels, optional equipment on TC models
On cars fitted with wire wheels, the changing procedure is as follows:
1. Place removal tool over decagon nut, the handle pointing towards the front of car.
2. Slacken nut by tapping on the handle of the removal tool in the direction of the arrow.
3. Jack up car.
4. Unscrew nut and withdraw the wheel from the splined hub.
5. Refit the wheel by reversing the removal procedure.

Removing hub cover plate

A-Wheel brace
B-Hub cover plate

Removing hub cover plate

A-Wheel brace
B-Hub cover plate

Seat rake and height adjustment, all models

The seat rake and height can be adjusted to suit drivers of different statures, by using the two sets of distance pieces supplied in the tool roll, together with the distance pieces already in use. These can be fitted between the seat runners and the floor as follows:
1. Remove the four nuts securing the seat complete to the seat runner.
2. Lift off seat complete.
3. Remove the four Phillips screws securing the seat runners to the floor.
4. Using a combination of the existing distance pieces and those supplied in the tool roll, adjust seat as required.

Safety harness
Safety harness must be fitted to the anchorage points provided at both the driver's and passenger's position to comply with legal requirements applicable in the United Kingdom.
Use only Rover-approved safety harness which is specially designed for the Rover 2000.
With the occupant in the front seat, fasten the safety harness as follows:

(a) Slacken adjustment at quick-release buckle on shoulder harness
(b) Hold buckle 'A' in one hand with the flat side to the body.
(c) Take the tongue strap 'B' in the other hand, holding it so that the free end of seat strap is outward. The free end of the seat strap must not be passed through the buckle.
(d) Pass the tip of tongue through buckle 'A' and turn down the tongue in direction of arrow.
(e) Pull free end of strap 'B' in direction of arrow to adjust. Straps should be tightened to the point where the hand can just be
passed between belt and body. With the harness correctly adjusted, the quick-release buckle should be at the hip position.
(f) Then adjust quick-adjustment buckle on shoulder strap by pulling end of strap down.

To undo the buckle and leave the seat, simply lift the tip of the tongue. The two sections of the harness will instantly fall apart.
One of the objections to the use of seat harnesses is the fact that they tend to become dirty. To overcome this, the seat harness fitted to your Rover 2000 can very easily be removed as follows:
1 Depress pressure plate B.
2 Push harness lug C upwards so that the key-hole slot can be removed over the anchorage screw head A.
3 The safety harness may then be washed in hand-hot water with soap or household detergent. Do not use any other cleaning fluid.

Seat adjustment
A-Seat base
B-Seat runner
C-Distance piece

Safety harness fitting
A-Housing strap buckle
B-Tongue strap

Safety harness removal
A-Harness anchorage screw
B-Pressure place
C-Harness lug

Body care, all models

It is always preferable to clean the bodywork and stainless steel trim with water and sponge, using plenty of water; wherever possible the surface should be freely hosed. After drying with a chamois leather, polish in the usual manner, using any of the good brands of wax car polish.
As an alternative, if the body is only dusty, it can be wiped over with a soft, dry cloth and then polished, but great care must be taken to avoid scratching the surface.
It is well periodically to wash the underside of the car, to prevent mud pockets and the consequent tendency for rust formation.
The use on the roads during frosty weather of salt, sometimes in quite strong concentrations, is now being widely practised. Whilst special protection has been provided for the under surfaces of the body, etc., due to its highly corrosive nature, salt deposited should be washed off as soon as possible by thorough under-washing of the car.
Chromium cannot rust, but in instances where it is used on ferrous metals, it does not prevent the accumulation of red oxide on the chromium surface. Although continual polishing is not necessary, dirt must be removed periodically if the original high polish is to be maintained.

Ordinary metal polishes cannot be used, as some of them contain solutions which act as a solvent to chromium. The occasional use of a good brand of polish that has been specially prepared for chromium plate will be found useful.
Your car is trimmed with high-class leather, free from any artificially embossed grain. It is most important that detergents are not used when cleaning the seats, etc. Use a damp cloth with a little mild soap if necessary.

Serial numbers, all models For your information the chassis serial number will be found on a plate affixed to the top of the right-hand wing valance, visible after the bonnet has been opened. This number should be quoted in all correspondence; the registration number of the car is of no use whatever to us.

The engine serial number is stamped on the right-hand side of the timing chain case. On early models the engine serial number is stamped on the right-hand side of the cylinder block, at the rear.

Location of chassis serial number

Location of engine Serial number