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Jacking the car,
all models
Four tubular jacking
brackets are fitted under the body lower rail, behind the front wheels
and just in front of the rear wheels.
To raise one corner of the car:
1. Remove the rubber dust excluder from the appropriate jacking point.
2. Fit the pivoted extension on the jack well home into the bracket.
This extension can be lowered or raised by turning the handle either one
way or the other.
3. Turn the handle until the road wheel is clear of the ground. To lower
the car, reverse these operations.
If it is desired to
raise the car with means other than those supplied, suitable jacking points
are:
Front: Under the centre of the front cross-member.
Rear: Under the jack pad below boot floor, at the reverse lamp mounting.
Do not jack up under
the de Dion tube.
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Jacking
A-Jack
B-Rubber plug the car |
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Cars with spare
wheel location on boot lid
When it is necessary
to fit the spare wheel to the boot lid, proceed as follows:
1. Open the boot lid and support by prop rod.
2. Lift off spare wheel cover.
3. Early models. Prise off the hub cover plate using the flat end of the
wheel brace.
4. Unscrew locking wheel and lift out spare wheel.
5. Remove locating cup by turning anti-clockwise.
6. To remove motif from boot lid, first pull locking blade down- this
is located inside the boot directly under the spare wheel motif.
7. Release prop rod, then lower boot lid and remove the motif by turning
it anti-clockwise and lifting off.
8. Register locating cup on the boot lid, turn clockwise to tighten.
9. Place spare wheel, with the outside downwards, over locating cup on
boot lid.
10. Secure with locking wheel.
11. Fit motif to locking wheel, turn clockwise to tighten.
12. Early models. Fit hub cover plate.
Late models. Place PVC cover over the spare wheel.
13. Lift boot lid by means of exterior handle and support with prop rod.
Then release locking blade into slot.
14. If necessary the spare wheel support arm in the boot can be ~ -stored
tinder the trim. Remove retaining bolt, place support in horizontal position.
Refit and tighten bolt. Release prop rod then close boot lid.
15. To remove the spare wheel from boot lid and refit inside the boot,
reverse removal procedure.
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Spare wheel in boot
A-Hub cover plate,
early models
B-Locking wheel
C-Spare wheel
D-Locating cup
E-Support arm |
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Motif on boot lid
A-Locking blade
B-Motif |
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Spare wheel on boot
A-Locating cup
B-Spare wheel
C-Locking wheel
D-Motif
E-Hub cover plate, early models |
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Support arm for spare wheel
A-Support arm poseition for fitting spare wheel
B-Support arm in stowed position |
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Wheel changing,
all models
Disc Wheels
1. Prise off the hub cover plate, using the flat end of the wheel brace.
2. Slacken the five double-ended wheel nuts.
3. Jack up the corner of the car.
4. Remove the nuts and gently withdraw the wheel over the studs.
5. If available, place a drop of oil on the stud threads, to assist in
subsequent removal.
6. Fit the wheel, tighten the nuts as much as possible then lower the
car to the ground and lock the nuts securely.
7. Replace the hub cover plate.
Wire Wheels,
optional equipment on TC models
On cars fitted with wire wheels, the changing procedure is as follows:
1. Place removal tool over decagon nut, the handle pointing towards the
front of car.
2. Slacken nut by tapping on the handle of the removal tool in the direction
of the arrow.
3. Jack up car.
4. Unscrew nut and withdraw the wheel from the splined hub.
5. Refit the wheel by reversing the removal procedure.
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Removing hub cover plate
A-Wheel brace
B-Hub cover plate
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Removing hub cover plate
A-Wheel brace
B-Hub cover plate
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Seat rake and height
adjustment, all models
The seat rake and
height can be adjusted to suit drivers of different statures, by using
the two sets of distance pieces supplied in the tool roll, together with
the distance pieces already in use. These can be fitted between the seat
runners and the floor as follows:
1. Remove the four nuts securing the seat complete to the seat runner.
2. Lift off seat complete.
3. Remove the four Phillips screws securing the seat runners to the floor.
4. Using a combination of the existing distance pieces and those supplied
in the tool roll, adjust seat as required.
Safety harness
Safety harness must be fitted to the anchorage points provided at both
the driver's and passenger's position to comply with legal requirements
applicable in the United Kingdom.
Use only Rover-approved safety harness which is specially designed for
the Rover 2000.
With the occupant in the front seat, fasten the safety harness as follows:
(a) Slacken adjustment
at quick-release buckle on shoulder harness
(b) Hold buckle 'A' in one hand with the flat side to the body.
(c) Take the tongue strap 'B' in the other hand, holding it so that the
free end of seat strap is outward. The free end of the seat strap must
not be passed through the buckle.
(d) Pass the tip of tongue through buckle 'A' and turn down the tongue
in direction of arrow.
(e) Pull free end of strap 'B' in direction of arrow to adjust. Straps
should be tightened to the point where the hand can just be
passed between belt and body. With the harness correctly adjusted, the
quick-release buckle should be at the hip position.
(f) Then adjust quick-adjustment buckle on shoulder strap by pulling end
of strap down.
To undo the buckle
and leave the seat, simply lift the tip of the tongue. The two sections
of the harness will instantly fall apart.
One of the objections to the use of seat harnesses is the fact that they
tend to become dirty. To overcome this, the seat harness fitted to your
Rover 2000 can very easily be removed as follows:
1 Depress pressure plate B.
2 Push harness lug C upwards so that the key-hole slot can be removed
over the anchorage screw head A.
3 The safety harness may then be washed in hand-hot water with soap or
household detergent. Do not use any other cleaning fluid.
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Seat adjustment
A-Seat base
B-Seat runner
C-Distance piece |
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Safety harness fitting
A-Housing strap buckle
B-Tongue strap |
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Safety harness removal
A-Harness anchorage screw
B-Pressure place
C-Harness lug |
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Body care,
all models
It is always preferable
to clean the bodywork and stainless steel trim with water and sponge,
using plenty of water; wherever possible the surface should be freely
hosed. After drying with a chamois leather, polish in the usual manner,
using any of the good brands of wax car polish.
As an alternative, if the body is only dusty, it can be wiped over with
a soft, dry cloth and then polished, but great care must be taken to avoid
scratching the surface.
It is well periodically to wash the underside of the car, to prevent mud
pockets and the consequent tendency for rust formation.
The use on the roads during frosty weather of salt, sometimes in quite
strong concentrations, is now being widely practised. Whilst special protection
has been provided for the under surfaces of the body, etc., due to its
highly corrosive nature, salt deposited should be washed off as soon as
possible by thorough under-washing of the car.
Chromium cannot rust, but in instances where it is used on ferrous metals,
it does not prevent the accumulation of red oxide on the chromium surface.
Although continual polishing is not necessary, dirt must be removed periodically
if the original high polish is to be maintained.
Ordinary metal polishes
cannot be used, as some of them contain solutions which act as a solvent
to chromium. The occasional use of a good brand of polish that has been
specially prepared for chromium plate will be found useful.
Your car is trimmed with high-class leather, free from any artificially
embossed grain. It is most important that detergents are not used when
cleaning the seats, etc. Use a damp cloth with a little mild soap if necessary.
Serial numbers, all
models For your information the chassis serial number will be found on
a plate affixed to the top of the right-hand wing valance, visible after
the bonnet has been opened. This number should be quoted in all correspondence;
the registration number of the car is of no use whatever to us.
The engine serial
number is stamped on the right-hand side of the timing chain case. On
early models the engine serial number is stamped on the right-hand side
of the cylinder block, at the rear.
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Location of chassis serial number |
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Location of engine Serial number
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